Monday, December 5, 2016

Fire and Rain

It has been raining constantly for two days. This is the beginning of day three and the radar shows a solid mass of rain storm stretching from San Antonio, Texas to Huntsville, Alabama. As it pushes northeast I'm sure that it is both helping and hindering the efforts around Gatlinburg, Tennessee. As I look at the radar I can't help feel sad for those folks. They need the rain to not only extinguish the fires but to put out hot-spots. They don't need the rain as they struggle to get to their homes and dig through the debris to find whatever of their past lives can be salvaged.

Over the years I have experience fires and disasters in many different ways. For some years I was a volunteer first responder. I have witnessed some horrendous sights I have no desire to remember nevertheless describe to you. But I do know that the sight of broken lives isn't greater or lesser according to the number of people. It doesn't matter if it is one family huddled together, hanging on each other for emotional more than physical support or an entire town. It doesn't matter whether homo sapiens are my least favorite animal. That has no bearing on my compassion for their pain.

I have walked for miles through charred forest following a fire but there I found new life and hope. Therein lies one of the great weaknesses of developed human society. For the humans, fires, great and small, are a disastrous terminal event. For the rest of nature fires are a natural cyclical event which bring new life. Some species of trees, like the giant sequoias and the lodgepole pine, actually need fire to reproduce. If it is hundreds years between fires that's how long they wait. This is nature and all living things, save one, accept it without complaint and may even turn it to their advantage. Sadly, over the centuries, humans have worked to remove themselves from nature and such cycles. The result isn't an improvement upon nature but a self-made chink in our natural defenses and our natural ability to adapt.

Please don't misunderstand me. I feel the pain of those who lost their homes and I have compassion. At the same time the naturalist/philosopher in me says that humans are at the root of their own demise and such events, as sad and painful as they may be, are wake-up calls to learn to live with nature, not in opposition to it. I feel most sorry for those who don't, won't or can't understand this.

Some years ago a large sub-division was built on a flat area of northern Alabama near Huntsville. There were a great many new homes all costing well over $200,000. Northern Alabama, especially around Huntsville, holds the record for annual tornadoes. One year, when all of these homes were quite new, there was a day when Huntsville had some twenty tornadoes go through. Every home in the sub-division was destroyed. It was as disaster of tremendous proportion. The people rebuilt their beautiful expensive homes. The next year - almost a year to the day - their homes were again destroyed by tornadoes. What did it take two years and unbelievable pain and sorry to learn?

I don't hang on the news, quite the contrary, but I haven't heard a thing about Gatlinburg since Dolly made her marvelous offer and the people were allowed to go back.

That's the problem with disasters. It is all we hear and, for those of you with television, see until the dramatic photo-ops and harrowing stories are past. Then it is like the disaster is over. After all, who wants to see heartbreaking pictures or listen to tearful descriptions of the aftermath. There is nothing sensational about that. The media move on to the next scenes of flames, blood and gore. I have a strong feeling that American children today have the idea that once the storm or the fire or the disaster has passed everything is back to normal. In fact, I would suspect that many adults have no comprehension because the media doesn't deem the aftermath newsworthy.


I'm sitting here on the main channel of the beautiful Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway - a navigable waterway that goes from the Gulf to the Tennessee Valley - sipping my morning coffee and watching the enormous barges and multi-million dollar pleasure craft go by and listening to the rain. It is so peaceful that it is tempting to think no more about what is happening a few hundred miles away. I have two choices. I can push my thoughts of the people in Gatlinburg from my mind like a passing vignette, or I can write a blog highlighting an easily repairable flaw in human society and remind people that, if we insist upon separating ourselves from nature, we must be prepared to share the pain of those who suffer. Gatlinburg's pain is far from over and the work to recover has just begun. Don't forget them because the media has moved on.

   

Sunday, November 20, 2016

A Young Woman is afraid. What can I say?

     My cousin's daughter expressed feeling unsafe since Trump's election.  I can understand. Many of us are afraid. We shouldn't be afraid in our own homes, but we are. This young woman felt that she had to look like someone she wasn't in the hopes that her true identity as a lovely, intelligent, educated, open-minded, liberal, and independent young woman would not attract those who have found justification for their bullying, intimidation, and assault.

     A friend and supervisor of ours, who is a trained and experienced Ranger, made a statement about being alone at a remove campground when law enforcement (LE Rangers) was not readily available.  We had been talking about our idea of opening this campground earlier in the season for the hikers and bikers that enjoy the Going-to-the-Sun Road when it is closed to auto traffic. Since LE Rangers are the ones you call when you're dealing with a bear or other dangerous animal in your campground and the campground of which we were speaking is known for lots of bear encounters, I assumed that our friend was speaking of the need for LE for this reason. When I said as much she just laughed. She said that she had no problem with wild animals. They were quite predictable and had good reason for their behavior. It was the humans that concerned her. She had a point. We are all trained to deal with indigenous animals, and the only ones we ever find scary is the invasive species known as homo sapiens.

     Now, with Donald Trump's election, sexism, racism, and all sorts of heretofore unacceptable behavior has been legitimized.  Pamela and I have been yards from grizzly bears and toe-to-toe with numerous black bears. We have been stalked by mountain lions and I've encountered wolverine and coyote while on trail patrol.  However, I never found myself as uncomfortable or feel in as much danger as I have encountered around fanatic Christians and Trump supporters since the election. We are so fortunate that we have the ability to disappear into the wilderness where Kiaayo and Omahkapi'si will be good neighbors and not care about our race, religion, gender, political position or sexual preference.

     I am at a total loss what to say to my cousin's daughter.  I wish that I could tell her that she's just over-reacting to a few isolated incidents. We all know that wouldn't be true.  The hatred, demeaning rhetoric, and violent behavior that we witnessed at Trump rallies is now spilling into the streets with a vitalized sense of legitimacy.  If Mr Trump can make fun of a handicapped person on national television, shouldn't anyone be able to mock him/her at school, work or in a store.  If Mr Trump permitted and on at least one occasion encouraged followers to physically abuse and beat up on someone who disagreed with him in a rally, why shouldn't everyone be able to do so at any other time?  If Mr Trump tells us that immigrants, Muslims, LGBTs and anyone who is different from us is bad,  why shouldn't one be permitted to tell them to go away, or leave the store, or get out of the way? They're just bad people. Mr Trump said so. Why shouldn't one be permitted dto kick a Muslim who is kneeling to pray? They don't worship the right god. Besides, we all know that they're all terrorist.  Mr Trump said so.  Why shouldn't one demean the immigrant working at a McDonald's or cleaning rooms? She's probably undocumented and is taking an American's job.  I could go on and on and on, but I won't. You know what I mean. You've seen it.  Don't try and deny it.

     You see, when the similarities to other atrocities in history is pointed out many people are quick to say "that couldn't happen here."  Right.  When I lived in Dublin I knew a great number of German immigrants. Most of them left Germany in 1929.  Hitler didn't actually become Chancellor until 1933.  They left because they saw Germany blindly carrying on thinking Hitler was a joke that would go away.  In fact, in one of Hitler's interviews shortly after he took power, he chided those who doubted that he would rule Germany.  "At the risk of appearing to talk nonsense I tell you that the National Socialist movement will go on for 1,000 years! ... Don't forget how people laughed at me 15 years ago when I declared that one day I would govern Germany. They laugh now, just as foolishly, when I declare that I shall remain in power!" (Adolf Hitler to a British correspondent in Berlin, June 1934)  

     To my cousin's daughter I can only say 'you are not alone.'  I must, however, admit that she has good reason to feel afraid but to remember, we can survive this nightmare and we can prevail. It will require that we all stick together and call tyranny by its real name.





Saturday, November 19, 2016

US President - Blind Trust - Conflict of interest

There is no requirement for the President to use a blind trust to avoid conflict of interest. Almost all other federal employees are required to divest themselves of potential conflicts. The President of the United State has traditionally resigned from any position - e.g. being a part of a legal firm, positions on corporate boards - that might cause a conflict and put business assets into a blind trust.

"A blind trust, as discussed in this report, is a device employed by a federal official to hold, administer and manage the private financial assets, investments and ownership of the official, and his or her spouse and dependent children, as a method of conflict of interest avoidance. In establishing a qualified blind trust upon the approval of the appropriate supervisory ethics entity, the official transfers, without restriction, control and management of private assets to an independent trustee who may not communicate information about the identity of the holdings in the trust to the official. The trust is considered “blind” because eventually, through the sale of transferred assets and the purchase of new ones, the public officer will be shielded from knowledge of the identity of the specific assets in the trust. Without such knowledge, conflict of interest issues would be avoided because no particular asset in the trust could act as an influence upon the official duties that the officer performs for the Government."

In the past, the President-elect established his blind trust during the transition period. Guess who has had no such trust. You guessed it, President-elect Donald Trump. He says that his children are going to run his businesses. Does that sound like divesting yourself of potential conflicts of interest? It doesn't, especially when you have your children present at a meeting with a foreign dignitary.

The Washington Post reported on a CNN interview of Rudolph Giuliani by Jake Tapper. Here is an excerpt from that report.

"Good-government types were already crying foul over Donald Trump's intention to put his children in charge of his business during his presidency. And now that those same children are on Trump's transition team, these groups are even more concerned about conflicts of interest. Trump loyalist Rudolph W. Giuliani seemed to acknowledge in a CNN interview Sunday that it wasn't an ideal set-up. But then he offered a remarkable defense. "He would basically put his children out of work if — and they'd have to go start a whole new business, and that would set up the whole — set up new problems,"Giuliani said on "State of the Union." Giuliani added: "It's kind of unrealistic to say you're going to take the business away from the three people who are running it and give it to some independent person. And remember, they can't work in the government because of the government rule against nepotism. So you would be putting them out of work."

I could be totally heartless and say 'oh, let's have a pity party for Trump's adult children who can probably go a good four years on the change in their pockets', but I won't be quite that bad. I will admit that I don't care what Trump's children do during his presidency. They are adults. They can find jobs like the rest of us commoners. They weren't elected and providing for their employment is not the responsibility of the US government or the American people.

I am more concerned about the consistent resistance Donald Trump has to anything which avoids a conflict of interest. I'm not surprised. He has consistently demonstrated that he believes himself above the law. Hail, King Trump! Bheadh ri Trump, beidh mé ag iarraidh i gcoinne tú.

Bheadh ri Trump, beidh mé ag iarraidh i gcoinne tú.


Thursday, November 10, 2016

Pax Americanus - is it time again?

I'm sure that people who follow me aren't surprised to know that I journal.  It took me several years before I really got into the habit. I will go for many days, maybe weeks, without writing anything of interest or merit, but last night I blogged about feelings and reactions on the first day after the election.

Many of my friends spoke of "being in mourning". It was interesting that they chose the word "mourning" to describe their feelings quite independently of one another.  I was also struck by the fact that this is the second time in recent history where a Democrat has won the popular vote but a Republican had the electoral votes to win the election. What is ironic is that this phenomena just allowed Donald Trump to become President when he complained about the Electoral College and wanted it disbanded in 2012.  Enough about that.

What really started me writing was what I found myself writing in my journal. What follows is a direct quote from my personal journal Wednesday, November 9th.

"Posted video of Peter, Paul and Mary singing 'If I had a Hammer.'  Later realized that there are very few of us who were a part of that revolt.  I asked 'is it time again?' but who knows what that means? The generation that pulled that off are all in our 70s.  Even Pamela's age group - the young ones during the protest - are in their 60s.  Don't think we have it in us to do it again.

"So many my age have lost the fire and become the 'establishment' against which they protested.  At Mary Travis' memorial Bill Moyer, a journalist, said to the crowd 'this looks like a class reunion of the Nixon enemy list.' (A list contrived by Nixon of his enemies.)  All old like me.  I'm sure Donald Trump already has a well established 'enemy list' - i.e. people he hates because they oppose him. Hope my name is close to the top of page one.

Like our first struggle for human and civil rights in the 60s,  I refuse to be sucked in by hatred. I will put a flower in Trump's lapel - maybe even give him a kiss - but I will not join his hatred nor will I legitimize his bigotry, sexism, racism, etc.  Trump has clearly illustrated that he wants to take this country back into the 1950s, which were good years for a select few. I will not quietly give up what minimal gains we've made in the areas of civil/human rights, sexism, environment, etc. Neither will I give Trump any excuse or justification for the violence he has shown at his rallies capable of perpetrating against innocent people."

Guess I should sign this
With love,
A 70 year old hippie.

P.S.  Upon hearing what I was writing Pamela commented about the divisive hate which we are seeing festering. To summarize what she said - 'to hate the haters is hatred.'  That was one of the hardest things of the 60s; viz. not to hate or be overcome by hatred.  I didn't like Regan or the Bush boys because of their love of war, but I didn't hate them and wasn't afraid of them.  I am afraid of Donald Trump. Watch his rallies and listen to his rhetoric. He is very efficient at creating and using hate. Those of us who oppose this man musts work doubly hard not to get sucked in by his hatred. For the younger generations, it's like Luke Skywalker resisting being sucked into hatred of the Emperor. If he allowed himself to hate, he was doomed to be just like the emperor.


Sunday, September 18, 2016

The Climb

Don't ask me why, but I looked around before I stepped off the asphalt path onto the almost undetectable trail. Perhaps it is because stepping off the asphalt is like escaping ... slipping away from so-called civilization into a world seldom explored by people. As I thought about it, it is a selfish act. I don't want anyone to see me because I don't want anyone to follow me. I'm going up to a realm where the higher I go the fewer people I will see.

Almost immediately I pass through a line of trees and shrubs which hide me from any questioning eyes. Have you ever tip-toed past someone in a game of hide-and-seek and felt that excited tension in your stomach? It is so intense as I scurry to safety behind the trees. "I made it," I think to myself. I got away without being seen. At that point there is the sense of relief. You feel like a puddle on the ground as all of the tension in your body and the fear in your brain is released and runs out of you. At least that's how I felt. It was so intense and so overwhelmingly uplifting that I had to stop for a while to enjoy it and to regain my composure.

As I stepped out on the trail and looked up at the mountain I became giddy. I've never been stoned but I can't imagine a drug high to be any more enjoyable. Give me my 'far-away-from-civilization-enjoying-the-solitude-and-excitement-of-the-wilderness' fix and I'll be happy.

The path leads through acres and acres of high alpine meadows. From the magnificent color and rugged terrain you'd never guess of the struggle for survival that goes on here constantly. I am careful to stay on the path. A long-term trampling study that was conducted at Glacier National Park in northwestern Montana found that a single foot print on sub-alpine vegetation can take 50-80 years to recover. That time is almost doubled for the high alpine vegetation. Yes, some vegetation is lost when indigenous animals walk and feed on the meadows, but their presence is a part of the balance and helps the vegetation survive. For example, hooves and bear claws prep the soil for seeds and provides oxygen. Human foot prints just destroy. Nothing more. We are the destructive intruder into this world and I try my best to makes a minimal impact. Staying on the trail is the best start.

That isn't always the easiest thing to do. The local animals also like the trails and there are times when I must share with a big Billy or some other animal. I have had more times than I can count where I had to carefully step onto a large outcrop of rock and permit the animal have the right-of-way. They give me a wary glance as they pass but, for the most part, ignore me. I stand in awe.

As I move through the meadows I scan the horizon for large ungulates, bears, mountain lions and other animals for whom this is home. Up here I've seen the illusive and magnificent wolverine as well as the majestic grizzly bear. You don't see the mountain lion, but they see you. They are always in predator mode. I usually count on the marmot, columbian ground squirrel and other small animals to let me know if there is a predator in the area.

After the expanse of meadows I pass along a very open ledge. On my left is a steep outcropping of rock which creates countless small waterfalls as water makes its way off the mountain. There is one stream which is wide and deep enough to force me to ford. To my right the rocky meadow drops off sharply and disappears about thirty yards away where it drops two to three hundred feet.

The trail begins its steep ascent. I climb from one narrow ledge of bare rock to the next. I am well aware that I'm walking on some of the oldest rock on earth. I am on rock that is billions of years old. This is rock that, elsewhere, would be found many hundred of feet below ground, not the better part of a mile and a quarter up.

All round me are rocks that indicate that this area was once at the bottom of an ocean some eighty miles west. There are large boulders that show the cracks that form when mud dries in the hot sun. There are also those that display the ripples created by millions of years of wave and tides. Then there are the stromatolites. Stromatolites are the fossils of the oldest living organism on the planet. The cynobacteria that died and formed stromatolites are responsible for there being air on planet Earth. On a previous climb I had found stromatolites a few hundred feet from the top of the mountain. This day I discovered an entire band of them at about 7,000 feet which could be followed for quite some distance.

I found myself so immersed in ancient ancient that I almost expected to look up and see some animal from the Cenozoic period checking to see if I am edible as I began to climb over large outcroppings. It wasn't long before I had to stop after each short ascent to look for the next best avenue to the top.

Many climbers just go across a scree field to a saddle between the two mountains and then up to the summit. I don't like to try to cross scree. I don't feel I have the skill and that scares me. The one scree field covers several acres with an elevation change between bottom and top of at least sixty feet. If you start sliding out of control on that scree field you have a very long drop at the bottom.

Even before you get to the top of the mountain you have a panoramic view in all directions.

People ask 'why do you go up there?' I laugh as I stand looking out over the great wilderness. The cold wind is painfully stinging any exposed portion of my face. I can't imagine how it would feel to be up here on a rainy or snowy day. But I look out at the wilderness world which I love. I see everything that is good and beautiful and positive in the world. Here and in that wilderness I feel free and I experience peace.

Why am I up here? I look back down toward the civilization where I carefully sneaked onto the path that brought me here. Why am I up here? The answer was simple . . . because "they" are down there.


Tuesday, September 6, 2016

The Joy of Full-Timing

We're probably singing "on the road
again" along with Willie Nelson.
It is interesting. No one in our generation seems to be neutral about the idea of full-timing; i.e. your home being wherever in this great land you happen to be. Of those who don't full-time or spend the majority of their time on the road, there are a fair number who think we're crazy. After working hard all your life, why would you want to give up all of the "comforts" of just staying home? There's obviously a debate built into that question which I will ignore for now. Suffice it to say, those of us who live this life don't see it that way. This is evidenced by those who are openly envious of our life-style.

The first great joy about full-timing is the ability to do it. Most people have too much debt. Conspicuous consumption is still a major behavior problem in the US. Then everything has to be bigger . . . bigger than before, bigger than your neighbor's, bigger than last year's model, etc. As a result we have people attempting to full-time and ending up trading their home mortgage for a big class-A RV loan, which can be as big or bigger than the mortgage, and still carrying their heavy consumer credit card debt. Other people are not physically able to hit the road. I really feel sorry for them because there are a lot of such people who would love and be willing to do what we're doing. Then there are those who are afraid to venture into the unknown. A lot of them will claim that they are morally or ethically tied to a town, but we know that's not true. Truth be known most of this group are people who are afraid of anything new or different. They don't want to try new experiences or eat new foods, and are really terrified of having to deal with and/or live among people who look, dress and/or act differently than "at home". I have sympathy for this group as well. There's nothing wrong with admitting that you're afraid to leave home or venture into the unknown. They're generally the ones who try to convince me that I'm crazy for doing it. The last, and probably largest group, are those who just don't care. They're perfectly happy sitting on the sofa watching television or on the porch watching the grass grow. But that's their choice and that's okay.
Why would you want to stay in an RV city when you can
stay in places like this. (Our first year on the road.)

One of our habits that makes full-timing a whole lots more affordable is that we do not use commercial campgrounds like KOA. There's nothing wrong with places like KOA, but we don't need or want the city-like set up. Since we started traveling we have only stayed in a KOA once. That was when we were making our way to Glacier. We had taken the middle route - straight across Missouri and Kansas to Denver and turn north. We selected this route because North and South Dakota were getting hit by blizzards. We got into the far western end of Kansas and found ourselves in driving rain with tornadoes in front and behind us. We got off the road and went to ground at a little KOA. They even had a tornado shelter which we thankfully didn't need. The next morning we arrived in Denver and turned north only to run into the snow we were trying to avoid.

Some people don't want to consider staying anywhere where they do not have full utilities. We don't care. The only things we have that can't be run by a 12 volt battery system is the microwave, air conditioner and television. We have only use our AC a couple of times in three years, so not having power to run it doesn't bother us in the least. The same is true of the microwave. The television is actually only attached to a blue ray player. We do enjoy watching movies but we don't do it a lot and it doesn't bother us not to have it. We see campers and full-timers who will run a generator 6 hours a day or want to switch camp sites because they think they can get better TV reception at a different site. If this is what they want to do, that's fine. It isn't what we like.

We love to stay in State parks, National Forests and National Parks. National Forests have places where you can stay for free or as little as $5 not counting the 50% off I get with my senior pass. We stay in such places whenever possible while we're traveling and are exploring larger National Forests for places we would enjoy spending some time. We're looking forward to trying a place in Arizona named Quartzite. It is a small town surrounded by BLM land in the desert where you can stay for free. The town makes its living during the winter months by having tens of thousands of campers and full-timers stay there for anything from a few days to a couple of months. You can stay at a full-utility campground in the town or boon-dock in the desert. The town has a different show or festival each week - antique car show, quilt shows, jewelry fairs, etc. Vendors set up tents and sell just about anything legal. Friends and colleagues who have gone there say it is something to be experienced at least once.

Of course we love living in Glacier National Park. At this point in our lives that's our raison d'etre. When my son-in-law asked why we didn't take one of the paid Ranger positions Pamela pointed out that we are two of twelve people who actually get to live in the park. Having seen the park, he conceded the point. This year (2016) we have the privilege of being here the entire camping season. We are the first ones, of whom we are aware, to have done this. We actually had two nights in May when we were the only humans inside the park on the west side of the Continental Divide. That was exciting. Imagine having about 1/2 of a 1,500 square mile park all to yourselves. We will be the last ones out of the campgrounds the end of this month. The thing one must remember about being a National Park Service volunteer is that you must really love it to do it. People who try campground volunteering just to get a place to park don't last long. We love what we do so much that it is hard to call it work even if our work days do average 14 hours long. If we ever get to the point that that isn't true, we'll quit.

When we travel from one destination to the next we stop at night at National Forest Service mini-campgrounds and pull-outs or at a Pilot Truck Stop. I don't like Walmart because they don't have any security. A truck stop like Flying J, Pilot, etc., keep a close watch on their lots. We love the west because we love the Rocky Mountains and you're not too far from the Pacific Ocean. We can easily find places to park our comfortable home, Sinni, near hiking, biking, kayaking, and scuba diving opportunities. Montana and the other Rocky Mountain states are also great if you just want to find a quiet and peaceful place with a magnificent view far away from the terror, perils and congestion of so-call "civilization." Such places are not as easy to find east of the Rockies.

Going kayaking with friends from northern Illinois in
central Indiana.  A great day!
We also quickly learned that having friends stretched out across the country makes for a lot of fun. It is fun to go from one place to another visiting friends along the way. The year before last we did a 1,400 mile trip that culminated in Jacksonville, Florida and stayed with or near friends every night. Not counting Montana, we know 43 couples or individuals in 21 states and two Canadian provinces from California to Maine who would be unhappy with us if we didn't visit them when we pass near them. Twenty-four of these are couples or individuals whom we met through the NPS. The park service is very much of a big family. If we were to travel from Glacier to northern Arizona we would have seven places along the way where friends would want an explanation if we didn't at least stop and have lunch with them.

Yes, some would call us crazy. For most of our days we have no idea what adventure the day will bring. The other day, for example, we finished our rounds and were visiting with friends who were camping with us. It was a beautiful Montana fall day in the mid-50s. We decided to take a bicycle ride. Before we got to the end of our campground we had changed the destination of the bike ride. By the time we had gone three or four miles we got talking about kayaking the white-water river next to us. That's all it took. We raced back to the campground, got our kayaks and finished the day taking our first solo white-water kayak trip down McDonald Creek. There was no agenda. For a fair portion of our year we have no idea, or perhaps an inkling of an idea, where we will be at the end of the day. When we made the 2010 mile trip from southern Indiana to Glacier last spring, we just pointed the nose of our truck in a westerly direction and pushed the gas. We spent the first night camped right on the bank of the Mississippi. The second night was on a lovely lake in southern Minnesota. The third night was in the "North Dakota Badlands" at Theodore Roosevelt National Park. The last night was in a city park in north central Montana. At the beginning of each of those days we had no idea where we would be spending the night.


Some may call us crazy. However, if this life-style is crazy, I love being crazy!   

Destination versus Journey

The journey. An evening after a days driving. 
Being a traveler isn't just about the journey or the destination. Pamela and I find that for us both are important. There are times that the destination necessarily takes such priority that we are not as intent upon the journey. The last time this was true was two years ago when we only had three days to get from Evansville, IN to West Glacier, MT - 2010 miles. We didn't go over the 65 mph trailer tire limitation but would drive for 12+ hours a day and stop for the night at a Pilot or Flying J. We hope not to repeat such a trip, but we realize that that may be unrealistic. Most of the time the destination is some place we are anxious to visit, but we plan to stay a while so we can take our time and enjoy the journey there. We feel sorry for the young folks who are so limited by time off from work and the kids school schedule that they race off to a vacation spot. They miss the joys of getting there and their visit is always overshadowed and activities determined by the mandatory departure in order to get home.

Stopped for the night at a State Park in Minnesota. 
Just yesterday a frantic camper came to our door. The hydraulic levelers on their fifth-wheel trailer would not retract. They were in a panic. They live in Canada and school was to start the next day. Their entire trip to Glacier was marred by this experience. Had they had our schedule, or lack thereof, the problem would have been little more than a costly inconvenience. Hang in their, young people, your day will come. We're working hard to try to make sure there are still magnificent forests and wilderness areas for you and your children.

The destination.  Looking north from our place at Sprague
Creek, Glacier National Park where we spent 5 months.
Pamela and I travel the back roads whenever possible. After all, trailer tires are rated for <65 mph. Besides missing a lot of the countryside when you travel the interstate, an interstate is boring. You can't really go much faster on an interstate. There are some times when you just have to suck it up and take an interstate. On our last trip of 2000+ miles we spent less than 100 miles of that on interstates. Pamela is a great navigator. She even takes us down county roads. She uses a paper map and smart-phone. She's only had one time that she had us going down a narrow country road and run out of road. It was fun trying to turn 38 feet of truck and trailer around on a country road. You don't exactly do a three-point turn. In her defense, all the maps indicated that the road went through. We have friends that will not travel more than 100 miles in a day. We'd like to be more like them but perhaps not limit our distance quite so much. We prefer to be able to stop in mid afternoon so we have time to explore our surroundings if we're not planning to stay there for days. Our goal is - if we don't end up in a Flying J or Pilot station - to spend a day or two each place we stop.

You never know who's going to stop by your campsite.
They tried to walk between Willy and the truck but
decided it was too close so walked around.
The great thing about taking the 'road less traveled' is what you see and learn and encounter and find yourself doing. We have found lovely and interesting villages that really deserve to be seen and appreciated but I'd bet that most of the people in the nearest city don't know they exist. We've stayed in city parks. We've enjoyed countless mom-n-pop stores and restaurants. We've met many friendly and interesting people and heard their stories - from the widow who continues to run a back-country campground some 15 miles down a gravel country lane in eastern Kentucky south of Natural Bridge to the man from PA who was waiting tables in Montana and travels around the country.

There's a small town in the Idaho panhandle named Wallace that people can now speed past - well, actually speed over - and never know its story or meet its people. Wallace has a fascinating history. More silver has been mined and shipped from Wallace in the past 100 years than anywhere else in the world. It has a very wild west history and has played host to senators, governors and presidents. It has a great little brewery and all of the old town buildings are on the national registry. Wallace is in a very narrow canyon. When I-90 came along it was just going to level Wallace. (The biggest problem with so-called progress is that no one asks whether we should really do the project.) The people of Wallace fought back and kept the construction in court. While construction was tied up in court the people in the town very quietly, so as not to draw attention, filed and got every one of their old town buildings listed on the national register of historic buildings. Those building then could not be moved or destroyed. If you travel the Idaho stretch of I-90 today you will go on a bridge up against the side of a mountain above the town. Small town - 1. Thoughtless development - 0!


Destinations are important. For us destinations are places we want to visit and perhaps spend from a few weeks to a few months. I think that destinations are important. Designating destinations helps complete that bucket-list which, for us, is filled to overflowing. At the same time getting to those destinations is not only a significant part of the joy of the adventure but an important part of the trip. If one does not take their time getting to the destination, it not only reduces the overall enjoyment of being on the road but makes us personally poor. We do not learn and grow. If we do not learn and grow we will not enjoy the experience as much. On the micro level science has found that when the brain stops learning it dies. I believe that this is also true on the macro level. The journey justifies the destination. The destination gives reason to the journey.  

The New Home

Sinni looks so much bigger but is only 4 ft longer.
Arthritis pain had me awake when I heard the furnace come on. A furnace with floor ducts and auto-ignition (no pilot needed) is really nice. We loved Willy and could keep him plenty warm with a small space heater. Comparing square footage, Nitsitapiisinni (Sinni for short) is only 32 square feet bigger than Willy. However, when you take into consideration the higher ceiling you find that Sinni is 352 cubic feet bigger. That's a difference and take more to heat.

The people who bought Willy called yesterday to ask about winterizing. Since we used Willy year around and never had him in serious snow country like northwestern Montana during the winter, I couldn't be a whole lot of help. Nevertheless we had a nice chat. They have been living in Willy. They experienced their first night listening to the rain and loved it. Especially with a light rain, Willy always felt safe and cozy. I think that same rain storm helped me bond more with Sinni. It is taking a bit of time to become accustomed to things not being vintage.

Willy hitched up and ready to go. What a traveler!
Despite all the comforts of Willy, Pamela felt more like she was camping in Willy. Since to me 'camping' is sleeping on the ground with little or nothing between you and the elements, a fire as your sole source of warmth, a tree or bush is your bathroom, and removing the word 'comfort' from your vocabulary for the sake of the thrill of being that close to nature, I've never really thought of our time living in Willy as 'camping'. The closest I think I came to calling what we were doing 'camping' were the times we boon-docked in 5-8 site National Forest campgrounds where it was like just pulling off the road into the woods with a pit toilet (if
lucky) and occasionally a hand-pump well for water. I think the reason that Pamela felt we were camping in Willy was that Willy was not new and seemed so much smaller. With everything being new and the sense of great room inside, Sinni gives more the impression of an apartment on wheels.

I'm sure that our full-timer friends who live in forty foot class-A (buses) or large class-C (living units built onto a truck cab and chassis) get a giggle out of this perception. Their laughter is never derisive or hurtful. They, like us, are people who prefer to live in the peace and beauty of the wilderness, escaping the harsh, cold and snowy winters of the north by heading south at season's end, and giving our lives purpose, meaning and excitement by living and working in parks or forests. I'm sure they think of us when they have to buy ten new tires at $1000 each.

Sinni arrives at her new home in Glacier National Park. 
Pamela and I are so happy that we have the health and ability to do what we do. We are frugal but, perhaps more importantly, we enjoy and prefer the simple. We didn't pick Sinni because she was less expensive than a 40' class-A or giant trailer with half a dozen slides. We picked Sinni because she met our needs and wishes. We only gave up Willy because we needed a walk-around bed for Pamela's Restless Leg Syndrome (a painful and potentially debilitating chronic neurological disease). Sinni is short enough to go almost anywhere, and light enough that we don't need a monster diesel to pull her. She has a full bath, complete with bathtub (Pamela's requirement) and a good gas stove with an oven (my requirement). She has a double axle, which we feel is essential for road stability and safety. Everything else are perks . . . electric tongue jack, solar ready, solar panels, stereo with external speakers, outside shower, winter packet, etc.

We don't seek the simple to prove a point or make a social statement. (Although I guess our life-style does demonstrate that Americans can live much more simply and not only be comfortable but save a lot of money.) We live our simpler life-style because it is what we enjoy. In the past three years our free-spirit, on-the-road life-style has taken us to 21 states from Florida to Washington.


Whether you want to call the way we live "camping" or just "dragging our home behind us" it is what we want. The difference between our ideas of 'camping' doesn't matter. Willy was home and now Sinni is rapidly earning that distinction.  

Thursday, September 1, 2016

Hungry Horse Reservoir

We had a great afternoon completing our exploration of the Hungry Horse Reservoir. It took us two days, but we drove the entire 116 miles around the reservoir and stopped at every campground and boondock camping area. The campgrounds cost $13/night. The boondock areas are all free. Some of them even have pit toilets. We decided that we would prefer to camp on the west side since the camping areas there have much more panoramic views and are looking at the dramatic mountains of the Flathead Range that run through the Great Bear Wilderness.
Hungry Horse gets its name from a story of two draft horses that wandered off into these mountains in the winter. They survived and were found  some days later very skinny and very hungry.
We drove counter-clockwise today starting at the dam. Early into our exploration we spotted an Osprey nest high atop what appeared to be a tall lodge pole pine. This was a burn area and recovering beautifully. I was able to get some good pictures. The mountains behind her in the close-up are Great Northern Mountain and Mt Grant. Stanton and Grant glaciers are just out of sight.

I love the mountain ash especially when it is heavy with bright red berries. That especially true when my picture shows Great Northern Mountain in the background. We had a snack at this spot - a boat ramp near one of the campgrounds. The view was spectacular. The reason that it appears a bit hazy is smoke from forest fires far to the west. 



This picture is looking at a small inlet on which there was an unnamed (boondock - no charge) campground. It had enough room for 5 campers. The reason that we know that is that that is how many there were. You just have to know it's there. I took GPS coordinates so I can mark it on a map and we can find it again. I put the truck into 4 wheel drive to get out. The climb was just short of 300 feet in less than 1/2 mile. You can see how narrow the road is, and there's a rather big drop if you get off. 

Actually driving along the west side of Hungry Horse reminds me of driving the Going-to-the-Sun Road except this one is gravel and the drops are only 2-300 feet as opposed to 800-1000 on the Going-to-the-Sun. But, as the old saying goes, 'it isn't the fall that kills you. It's the sudden stop.'

Our new hometown, Columbia Falls, is just over the mountain (Columbia Mtn) from the entrance to the Hungry Horse National Forest, and it is about 7-8 miles from the west gate to Glacier Nat'l Park. Since we have explored every road that went down to the lake, we want to start exploring roads that head up into the mountains and start making notes on the geology of these areas. It is a magnificent area.  
 

Friday, August 12, 2016

Kurtis

His entire life Kurtis had been considered a bit strange. After all, he talked to animals and treated them as though they were as good as humans. He opposed every damn, every dirt bike trail, every road, every building . . . he opposed anything that would make those mountains more accessible, more enjoyable or more beneficial to humans. He was a pain in the proverbial ass. After all, save the environment is okay for a twenty year old until it starts getting in the way of human enjoyment and comfort, then one has to grow up and realize that that sort of ecological nonsense just gets in the way of progress. If you want to see animals we can always build zoos. If those mountains were going to bring in some real money they had to forget that Wilderness Act shit, start building hotels, roads, dirt bike trails and other attractions. They also had to get rid of bears and mountain lions so people didn't have to worry about where they went.

This way of thinking kept Kurtis in an almost constant state of upset. He didn't care what people thought of him, but he was beginning to feel totally alone in the struggle to save the wilderness. He seemed to lose one battle after another.

But this day Kurtis had won. He had stopped a resort from building a road up the side of a mountain and building a hotel on top. Of course there would have to be the necessities - water, sewage, electricity, gas, internet, telephone and television. The local community was irate. They had been told that this hotel would bring lots of money and jobs to their town. Who gave a dam about picas and other animals. They could go somewhere else. Kurtis had convinced the judge that he should uphold the protection of the wilderness.

Kurtis had been in the city several days to attend court. His celebration was to hike up the mountain as soon as he arrived home. Some locals, returning from the same court, went to the local bar to drown their sorrows. Anger turned to hate which turned to revenge.

When Kurtis came down the mountain he first saw the smoke. Then he saw the fire. Hateful people had set his cabin on fire. Kurtis stood in silence watching all of his earthly belongings burn. He knew what he had to do.

For some reason the arsonists had not bothered his old truck. In the back was his pack. It had all of his camping and survival gear in it. He loaded the 3 liter bladder with water from the well. Next to the well was Kurtis' storage shed under which was his root cellar. Here he gathered dried fruit and vegetables, rice, a large bag of tea, dried fish, a bag full of herbs and spices, eight large cakes of Tamamuhara running food, some flour, sugar, a box of salt, a small cook stove and a fifth of Big Horn Montana Bourbon. "Medicinal," he thought to himself with a sad smile.

Once loaded his pack stood a good 10-12 inches above his head with his sleeping bag tied to the underside of the pack. He didn't want to think about how much it weighed but this was survival. With a sad last look at his burning home he hoisted the heavy pack on his back and headed back up the mountain.

He only went a couple of miles that first evening before bedding down for the night. The next day he hiked up to a back-country lake favored by fishermen. There was a campground at the south end of the lake where he camped the second night. It was September and fishermen were not going to hike this far into the high country because of the chances of snow. Kurtis used the fishing line from his survival kit to catch a small mountain whitefish. The night before he had just drank water and nibbled on some Running Food. This, by comparison, was a banquet and he went to sleep satisfied.

The next morning Kurtis studied his topographic map. These mountains were his home, but he had to give some serious thought to where he should go to be the safest and farthest from humans. His attention was drawn to a cluster of small lakes in a hanging valley high up Great Eagle Mountain. They were 8,400 feet up the 10,326 foot mountain. There were no trails for miles and if someone did decide to climb the mountain they would approach from the south west and he could go undetected. He was going to go up the side of Harkin Mountain to the saddle between Harkin and Great Eagle. Then the slope around the east side of No Joy Peak would put him on a steep but not too difficult to traverse slope down to the hanging valley.

Harkin Mountain was 8,264 feet and he would have to climb within 300 feet of its summit. No Joy Peak was 8,690 and he would have to go within 500 feet of its summit. If he could make good time he would probably stop for the night in the saddle between Harkin and No Joy.

The valley was heavily wooded for an elevation of 5,200 feet. Kurtis followed the creek that he knew came down from an unnamed lake just below the saddle. It went due south from his campsite and then turned up a narrow valley to his south east. It was easy hiking but Kurtis knew that was only going to last for a few miles. He would have to start up the side of Harkin a good mile or so before the lake. If he didn't he would be faced with a sheer wall.

The climb up Harkin Mountain took Kurtis the better part of two hours crossing the broad steep mountainside back and forth looking for the best route. He had broken out of the tree-line by 6,400 feet and was ready to start south just below the mountain peak at about 7,200 feet. The saddle was in sight shortly before it started to snow. Kurtis knew that, if it continued to snow, visibility would fall and footing would become treacherous. It was time to make camp.

According to his Casio Pathfinder, it was mid-afternoon and he was at 7,360 feet up. The landscape was barren and rapidly becoming a blanket of white. Kurtis found a large bolder and pitched his tent on the leeward side as close to the rock as he could get. That would provide him some protection from the wind. Snow on the tent would actually add some insulation.

The previous nights had been cold and he had built a fire. This night was different. He was not going to try to build a fire in the wind and he didn't want to use what little fuel he had for the cook stove. Result - he drank cold water with his running food.

Running Food is a super-nutritious mixture that is still used today by the Tamamuhara Indians who literally run through the mountains of north-central Mexico. Kurtis knew that he was getting the nutrition that he needed even though his stomach did complain about not being physically full.

Kurtis peeked out of the tent. There was a wall of white. He had made a good decision. His sleeping bag was rated at minus twenty degrees. He took off his outer layer of clothes inside the sleeping bag and put them by his feet so that he would have warm dry clothes when he got up.

In the high Rockies about the only time you can count on there not being snow is the month of July and maybe some of August. Otherwise snow is almost as likely as rain at lower elevations. Kurtis slept soundly and awakened early, as was his habit. He noticed the quiet. He could tell that the tent was covered with snow.

Kurtis made a small vent by pushing the snow away from the tent door and lighted his portable cook stove to make tea and give him a bit of warmth. After the tea and Running Food Kurtis bundled up, struck camp, and headed toward the ridge where he would drop into the hanging valley on the east side of Great Eagle Mountain.

He did not have far to go, distance-wise, to get to the ridge, but he had at least a 1,330 foot climb unless he went a bit farther east at a lower elevation and then worked his way back at that same elevation. The first four to five hundred feet were tough in the snow and the grade was getting steeper. Kurtis decided that he had plenty of time so it would be much safer to go along the north flank of the east-west ridge protruding from No Joy Peak and then return west on the south flank of that ridge at close to the elevation of the hanging valley.

Just the distance of this detour required several hours resulting in him not arriving above the lakes until mid-afternoon. The detour had actually saved him from a seriously steep descent. Coming across the side of the ridge at about 7,200 feet he found that he had to descend a less steep slope and only had to drop about 160 feet.

Kurtis found a large outcropping near the largest lake that looked like a giant tooth. If he built his shelter on the east side of this tooth it would afford him protection from wind as well as avalanches. For an avalanche to actually hurt him it would have to drop from the mountain, cross the lake and a wide open area then bring down the giant tooth. Besides the fact that there were no signs of avalanche chutes Kurtis figured that the massive tooth; which was 30-40 feet thick, 200 feet wide and 80 feet high; would withstand just about anything an avalanche could dish. There was no more than 150 yards before the edge of the hanging valley and a 400 foot drop into the valley below.

For the fourth night of Kurtis' exile, he set up camp on the leeward side of the great tooth. A short distance away there was a fair stand of aspin and white mountain pine. Kurtis dragged enough wood from the stand to the tooth to make a small shelter. He rolled a number of large snow balls and made two L-shaped walls which, up against the tooth created three walls and a door for the shelter. He used the wood he had collected to make a roof. He put a tarp on the roof and then another layer of wood. Inside Kurtis set up his tent. Near the stone wall he started a fire. The smoke went up the wall and out the small gap Kurtis had made for this purpose. 

As Kurtis ate his meal of fish, rice and green tea in his modified igloo he thought about his self-imposed exile. To this point he had been driven by pain and anger - no, more like excruciating pain and rage - and focused upon escape and survival. He hadn't really taken the time to think about what he had done. He had made a decision without considering the consequence. He had just known that he could not stay among people. He hadn't thought about how and/or if he could survive. He just knew that he could not survive among people. He had spent his life trying to protect the wilderness that is so essential to life on this planet while also trying to help people enjoy the wilderness without destroying it.

For people to attempt to kill him and destroy his home because he saved them from a disastrous decision was more than he could take. He had proven that the hotel would destroy the ecosystem which meant that it would destroy the wilderness which provides the livelihood for every person in the town. He had proven that the hotel wouldn't bring money or jobs. They were contracting the construction with a company five hundred miles away that didn't give a shit about the people in that town. When the hotel was built the professional staff were all coming from other company hotels. The only jobs any local people would get would be as waiters and chamber maids - seasonal work at minimum wage and no benefits. Kurtis hadn't been against the idea of developing a park or wilderness preserve where the local community could be rewarded by jobs and revenue for protecting the mountains. But while Kurtis had won in court, greed and human arrogance had won his community. This was just an example of the larger problem. It was just a single cell in a terminal cancer. Kurtis concluded that he no longer had any fight left. He was totally burned out. He did not just think he had done the right thing, he was sure of it. He would probably not survive the winter but he determined that he would rather die in the loving arms of the nature he had loved and fought for for so many years than survive in the hell created by his fellow humans.

The fifth morning of his exile, Kurtis awakened to a cold, crisp day. The sun was beginning to show above the horizon as he rekindled his fire and made a simple breakfast of dried fish and tea. After his breakfast he started looking for a spot to build a permanent shelter.

The snow crunched under his boots as he walked along the giant tooth looking for the ideal spot. As luck would have it, he found that spot almost immediately.

Despite the snow, Kurtis could tell that the contour of the ground came almost straight out from the boulder for ten to twelve feet and then dropped sharply about five feet before leveling off. This natural shelf could be the foundation for a modified sod house. Kurtis figured that he could dig his living area in this shelf and then he would only have to do a few rows of logs to give him head room. He already had a vision of his new home. Digging into the earth would provide lots of insulation and make it easier to heat.

All Kurtis had was a camp shovel. It was going to be a long hard job, so he got right to it. The first thing to do was to clear away the snow. He started moving the show to the west side of his project where it would act as a wind break using his shovel and folding canvass bucket. Moving the snow took him all morning. By noon he had cleared an area big enough to dig a ten by twelve whole. He wondered whether or not he was taking on a bit too much, but he could always stop and make do with a smaller cabin or dig further and enlarge it.

It was warm for noon in the high country. His thermometer said that it was 58 and the sun was shinning. Kurtis decided to take a little time to fish in the nearby lake and by one o'clock he had caught four nice mountain whitefish. To save time he packed the fish in the snow to save for dinner, ate some running food and went back to his digging.

By the time the sun was about to disappear below the western horizon one could see a distinct outline of a cabin. It was a simple rectangle about ten feet by twelve feet. The front wall was a good three feet thick. This would not only be good insulation but good support for the logs that would complete the cabin and hold the roof. Kurtis decided that he would build the fireplace in the spring, if he survived the winter, because it was going to take more time than he had before winter set in for good. He would just have to use a smoke hole and build his fire on the floor.

Kurtis cut some large branches from trees that he had selected for the log cabin portion and lay them over his work. This way, if it were to snow, he would be able to clear the area just by pulling away the branches.

Kurtis was happy with the progress he had made. He lighted his fire before he lost the last of the light and prepared himself a feast to celebrate. As he watched his fire slowly die, he sipped some of his Montana bourbon and considered his situation. He had spent most of his life in the mountains but he was realistic enough to know that his chances of surviving the brutal winter of the high country was not good. He knew that the temperatures would drop well into the negative numbers. If he didn't finish his hut and fill it with food before winter's grip, he would have no chance of survival. The strange thing, he thought to himself, was that he never doubted his decision to come here. He never worried about surviving. He knew what he had to do to survive and he would do his best. He was where he belonged, and, live or die, that truth would never change.

* * *
The next few weeks were beautiful, clear and rather warm for the high country. It was always cold at night and there was occasional snow, but, for the most part, the weather was making Kurtis' building and food gathering actually enjoyable. He tried to alternate activities so that nothing went totally undone.

Kurtis was able to make great progress on his hut. He had made a sled out of tree branches and a tarp that allowed him to take a lot more earth out of the hut per load than with his canvass bucket. That saved a lot of time. By the second week of October he was putting the roof on his hut.

The lakes near Kurtis' camp were filled with fish. He tried to fish a bit each day, smoking and drying his catch. Going down to lower elevations he gathered cow parsnip, glacier lily, pine nuts, white pine needles, golden rod and even found some berries - huckleberries and wild wax currents - that had been missed by the bears. Most of the huckleberries were actually dried on the plant but Kurtis was going to dry them anyway. But he realized that this wasn't going to be enough. Perhaps if he had had an entire summer he might have been able to gather, dry, smoke and prepare enough food for the winter, but these few weeks were not enough. He had to go into "civilization" and buy food.

Carefully covering his work and packing his backpack, Kurtis descended into the Gibson valley south and west of his camp and followed the creek several miles until he came across a clearing where there was a small cabin, out-house and barn. This was the home of Stanley and Mabel Sturgous. Stan and Mabel were wildlife researchers and had lived here for about eight years while they studied the Elk. They were good friends and people whom Kurtis could trust.

Mabel was a short , petite woman whom one would not guess, from her appearance, to be a strong and highly skilled back-country trekker and researcher. Somewhere in her thirties, she stood only five feet tall with long bright red hair. The look on Mabel's face when she opened the door was one of shock and great relief. "Oh, my god," she almost screamed. Leaping forward and throwing her arms around Kurtis, "Stan! Stan! It's Kurtis" she called.

Stan was Mabel's physical opposite. He was a good six feet, four inches tall and had to stoop to go through the door. His salt and pepper hair fell down his back in a pony-tail almost as long as Kurtis' and longer than Mabel's. He was several years older than Mabel but he didn't look it. He stepped out of the cabin and enclosed both Kurtis and Mabel in a big bear hug.

"My god, man, we thought you were dead," he exclaimed. "The sheriff searched the woods for miles around your cabin for you after they found it burned."

"Did he put on a good show?" Kurtis asked.

"What do you mean?" Mabel looked puzzled.

"I didn't really get to see the faces of the people who torched my cabin," Kurtis explained, "but I'd bet you almost anything he struck the match."

As they entered the cabin Kurtis continued with the story of the hearing and his self-imposed exile. The sheriff, he continued, had a lot invested in the hotel. He had stood to make a fortune. Bribery. Bribery which Kurtis could prove but didn't mention in court. 

"What can we do to help?" asked Stan.

"I need supplies. I've stored away fish, plants and berries but there just isn't time to put away enough to get through the winter. Would you be able to buy supplies for me?"

"Of course," the couple said in unison.

"In fact," said Stanley, "you can use Clarabell. Then you can take a lot more to your camp."

"That would be wonderful!" The Sturgous were good friends.

Kurtis made a shopping list and waited while Stanley and Mabel went to town in their old pickup. It would be several hours. Kurtis passed the time reading the Sturgous' notes. They had been tracking some elk whom they had tagged the year before. The tags were GPS. The University of Montana tracked them. Stanley and Mabel spent their time sitting in the mountains with powerful spotting scopes watching the animals. Understanding the behavior and movement of the animals along with their life cycle was crucial to understanding and protecting the health of this ecosystem. Protecting the health of the ecosytem also effected the amount and quality of water that nourished the farmers in the valley. Their work was vital.  

Mabel and Stanley returned with a truck full of supplies. It was too late for Kurtis to start back so Mabel made a big pot of stew and cornbread which they all enjoyed with a glass of wine. Kurtis tried to remember the last time he had eaten so well. After dinner the three friends talked about the environmental crisis and Kurtis' self-imposed exile. While there was more and more scientific evidence that humanity must return to its roots and make great strides in repairing the damage it had inflicted upon the earth just in order to survive, there were more vocal and unreasonable religious conservatives pressuring congressional representative to accept their denial on religious grounds clinging to their archaic anthropomorphic deity. Kurtis felt that he would totally lose his composure if he were to every again hear anyone say "the Bible says...."  How could they risk the life and well-being of the entire planet based upon a four to five thousand year old book based upon myths and stories and written by people who hardly knew where babies came from nevertheless have any knowledge of earth science, chemistry, physics, astronomy, etc., etc.? Such people wanted to sell the wilderness for commercial gain and eradicate species in the name of their god and human comfort. Kurtis told Mabel and Stanley that each fight was getting harder and harder.  He wasn't trying to save the earth for people. They were an invasive species. He wanted to save the earth for the sake of the rest of nature.  He had finally decided that he didn't care if humans destroyed themselves, but they were going to either destroy the earth or do significant damage in bringing about their own demise. He did not know how people like John Muir spent their entire lives fighting for the wilderness without going stark raving mad. 

Like Muir, Kurtis was a preservationist.  A preservationist is one who believes that wilderness must be preserved unhampered and untouched by humans.  Muir never argued that humans were an invasive species, but Kurtis wasn't sure that 'invasive species' was even a term or concept during Muir's life. He was sure that, were Muir alive today and knew about invasive species, he would agree with Kurtis' conclusion. 

"You're obvious preaching to the choir," said Stanley, "but you have to admit that all species put their survival above everything else."

"That's quite true," replied Kurtis, "but other species eat what they kill. Humans kill for fun and kill unnecessarily. To hunt and kill a bear solely for the pleasure of killing it, stuffing it and standing it in a corner, is not survival.  Purposely attempting to extinguish a species is not survival. Other species may not understand that they are a part of a delicate cycle of life on earth, but they play their part. Humans could understand but don't care to understand and do not play their part. When they spread out over every ecosystem and totally disrupt that systems balance, that is the behavior of an invasive species, not an indigenous species."

"Whoa," laughed Mabel. "We're on your side."

"I know," apologized Kurtis. "I know you are and I'm sorry, but it is getting harder and harder to try to explain to people that understanding this isn't anti-human. It is about the survival of the human species as well. Then you get nothing but blank, 'who-gives-a-shit' looks."  Kurtis took a long sip of his wine and leaned back looking at the ceiling. 

"I know it's hard," said Mabel. "But you are a great advocate. Most of the time those same sanctimonious, god-fearing, assholes are the ones who take away our funding when our research may well mean their prosperity as well as their survival. We're living off our retirement." 

"Yeah," joined Stanley, "if we don't get some funding soon we may be bunking with you."  They all laughed a hard and almost bitter laugh.  It was only funny visualizing all of them living in Kurtis' small cabin. The rest was not funny. It was heartbreaking. 

"You're good people," said Kurtis seriously.  "I don't have much, but I don't need much to live in the mountains. I'll fund your work." 

Soon the fire began to die and the three friends said good night. 

* * *

The next morning Kurtis' supplies were loaded onto Clarabell, the Sturgous' mule, along with a shovel, large cross-cut saw, and some other tools. Stanley had convinced Kurtis to let him come along to bring Carabell back. Kurtis gave Mabel a hug and the two men headed north along the creek into Gibson Valley.

The supplies made life a lot easier for Kurtis. It also gave him some hope that he would survive the winter. He had brought five large containers filled with food, cooking utensils, clothes, tools, nails and items to make his hut a bit more comfortable. With the saw Kurtis was able to make a saw pit which enabled him to make planks and shingles.

By the end of October the snow was beginning to accumulate and signs of winter were everywhere. Kurtis was returning from fishing and stood looking at his new home with pride. Since over half of the height was earth it was almost unnoticeable at a distance. The steep pitched roof actually had wooden shingles. There were two windows just below the logs that looked more like slits than windows, but they let in light. With the saw, the saw pit and other tools he had been able to frame the widows and make shutters. On either side of the door were long cords of wood. A few of the cords were covered with tarps. The rest were covered with branches to provide some protection from the snow.

Inside Kurtis had planked the floor and lined the walls. At the east end of the hut was a stone hearth. On both sides of the hearth fire wood was stacked to the ceiling. As he expected, he didn't have time to build a chimney. There were other boxes built into the back wall that provided storage. Two oil lamps hung from the ceiling equal distance from each side and one hanging above the food preparation area. There was a simple table and chair near the hearth, a narrow table against the back wall for food preparation, and a bed at the west end of the hut. Mabel had used blankets to pack some of the boxes he had brought from their place. He was still sleeping in his -20 sleeping bag but the blankets allowed him to sleep on top of the bag if it wasn't too cold and they added a homey, comfortable touch. They were also nice for sitting around the fire at night. A journal and four books lay on the table next to an oil lamp. One was the complete works of Jules Verne and another was the collected works of Arthur Conan Doyle. The third book was about surviving in the wilderness while the fourth book was entitled "The Skills of the hunter-gatherer". The wall above the food preparation area was covered with edible plants and herbs. Since Kurtis didn't have containers for them, it was easier to hang them.

As the snow began to accumulate and the day-time temperatures continued to drop, Kurtis made constant improvements on his hut in preparation for the days he could not go out. He tried to go fishing frequently and eat fresh fish to preserve his dried food supplies. He also made it a habit to spend a couple of hours cutting and chopping wood. He didn't want to have to go looking for wood in snow that would most likely be over his head. The snow was too deep to dig roots even if he could make the now dangerous descent into the tree-line.

Mosts people who think about spending the winter in the wilderness never think about bodily waste. We still poop and pee. If we don't, we're in big trouble. Kurtis had dug a pit toilet well away from his hut. Excrement attracts predators and while the bears were going into hibernation, there were other predators and bears do sometimes get up during the winter. For convenience he made himself a potty chair to go over his bucket which he covered with a piece of tarp.  He kept several large bags of sawdust from his building. Sawdust was a good absorbent and helped with smell. He would also put the ash from his fire and burned pine leave in the bucket and pit toilet to helpe to keep the bucket from smelling up the hut.

Long before refrigerators people kept perishables in what is called a root cellar. A root cellar may be anything from a simple box buried in the soft garden soil after the fall harvest to a permanent and roomy cellar dug into the side of a hill or in the ground near the house. The best root cellar stays cold but does not freeze and was near the house. Kurtis dug his root cellar right next to the hut.

As best as Kurtis could calculate it was the second week of November when the first big blizzard hit. He was glad that he had made his roof so steep. It had taken a lot more time and materials but the weight of so much snow would have crushed a less steep roof instead of sliding off like mini-avalanches. Kurtis had carefully chinked and daubed between the logs of his hut and the panels he had added later gave an extra layer of insulation and protection from drafts. The hut was actually warm enough that he could wear only a flannel shirt with his wool trousers.

Kurtis felt good about his hut and his preparations. He had worked hard. Now all that could be done was to survive. Sitting at his table near the fire with a large tin cup of hot white pine needle tea, Kurtis opened the journal. He thought a moment and began to write.

Day seventy-three of my self-imposed exile. I can not go out because of the storm. The wind is roaring around me but my huts is standing strong. I have no idea when I will be able to go outside again. To date I have been able to avoid using any of my winter provisions. I still have a bit of fresh fish for this evening. Now begins the ultimate test. I have done everything I could, in the time available, to relearn survival skills that my species has long forgotten and reunite myself with our true nature. Despite the hard work I have grown to love my new home and feel quite comfortable. The work is purposeful and rewarding. I look around my hut with pride. Barring injury, disease or animal attack, I feel confident that I should not only survive but experience a magnificent learning experience. Few humans, especially the contiguous forty-eight states, get to winter on top of the world.

* * *

It was mid-April. The snow in the Gibson valley was almost gone. Mabel and Stanley Sturgous were preparing for some spring expeditions into the back-country to try to find some of the elk they had tagged the year before. As they prepared they talked about Kurtis. They wondered whether he had survived the particularly harsh winter. In their valley they had had record snow fall. They could only imagine the amount of snow at over 8,000 feet up.

Ultimately they decided to combine a back country expedition with a visit to Kurtis' hut, if they could get there. They loaded a few extra food items just in case Kurtis had run out of food, clamped on their snow shoes, hoisted their packs and headed north up the Gibson Valley. Soon the landscape was solid white in all directions.

After several hours of difficult travel Stanley stopped and pointed to the hanging valley above them.

"Do you see that giant boulder sticking up like a tooth?" Stanley asked Mabel.

"Yes," she replied.

"Kurtis' hut is up against that boulder," said Stanley continuing their trek.

As they grew close to the hut both of the experienced back-country travelers showed signs of dismay. They didn't need to do more than look at each other to communicate their concern. There was no smoke coming from the hut.

They approached and called Kurtis' name. There was no reply.

They knocked on the door but there was no answer.

Hesitantly they went in side. The bed was neatly made and Kurtis' journal lay on the table. The fire was dead and there was scarcely a half-cord of wood next to the hearth. Having just opened the door and having been outside for so long they could not accurately judge the warmth of the room. After their long hike anything would feel warmer.

No words were exchanged. Obviously Kurtis had not died of starvation or the cold, but there were many other possibilities. They did not see any tracks near the cabin but, if there were, they could have easily been covered by snowfall. They stood outside the hut looking around when a figure appeared from the direction of the lakes.

It was Kurtis. He waved. He had a broad smile and held up a stringer of fish. His long braided hair protruded from under the ear-flaps of his rugged Tilly hat and his gray beard was bushy. He looked lean but walked toward them with strength and confidence.

As he approached the Sturgous saw another figure running toward Kurtis. It was a large black wolf. Stanley started to raise his rifle. "No!" yelled Kurtis as the wolf slowed and fell into step with Kurtis, "this is my friend Omahkapi'si."

Seeing the strangers Omahkapi'si began to growl and take a defensive posture. Kurtis leaned down, patted the animal on the back as he spoke softly into its ear. The wolf relaxed but remained vigilant as Kurtis ran the last few yards and gave his friends a bear hug.

After hugs, salutations and a brief explanation by the Sturgous as to why they were there, the three friends and Omahkapi'si went into the hut. As Kurtis lighted a fire he explained that he always extinguished his fire when he went out since he didn't have a proper fireplace. He didn't want to find himself without a home in the dead of winter.

Soon there was a warm fire and fresh fish cooking on the grill.

"I saved this to celebrate surviving the winter," explained Kurtis pulling a bottle of Montana Bourbon from a storage box in the wall. "Now seems an appropriate time to open it."

His friends smiled and laughed. It was indeed a time for celebration. Kurtis served up a gourmet meal of grilled fish on a bead of rice with a side of cooked plantain and wild onion and steaming hot white pine needle tea. For Omahkapi'si there was a large slab of meat on which the wolf chewed while lying near Kurtis. The friends ate as they listened to Kurtis tell his story.