Thursday, January 21, 2016

Tuna fish

I know it's rather strange to have a recipe on a blog page, but it is the easiest way to share it with lots of friends.  Pamela loves tuna fish sandwiches.  She says that I make great tuna fish, but, being a vegetarian, I've never tasted it.  I'm sharing it for two reasons - I can get feedback and if it's as good as Pamela seems to think, you might like it too. We do like things spicy.

TUNA FISH for a sandwich

Ingredients: 

1 can (1.5oz) of top quality white albacore tuna packed in water.  drain.
2 Tablespoons celery finely chopped.  (this is one small stock about 5-6 inches long)
2-3 Tablespoon red onion finely chopped.  (this is about a 1/2" slice from the middle of a medium sized red onion.)
a pinch of dry parsley
1/3 cup of mayonnaise  (I use real mayo w/ olive oil)
1 Tablespoon spicy mustard  (I use creole mustard but any nice tangy, spicy mustard should do.)
1/4 - 1/2 Teaspoon capers  (Pamela likes thinks salty)
few cranks of freshly ground black pepper.  (to taste)
a splash of lemon juice  (optional, to taste)
8-10 black olives finely chopped

Directions:

Put drained tuna in a small mixing bowl and break it up. Add celery, onion, olives, parsley, and capers and mix.

Once mixed add mayo and mustard and mix them in.

When well mixed add the black pepper and lemon juice individually so you can taste what you're doing.

Serving:

I like to use a good wheat or multi-grain bread. Sometimes I toast it.
As you can see I'm rather generous.  For this reason I get 3-4 sandwiches from this recipe. I also spread a bit of mayo & spicy mustard on the bread to give the sandwich a bit more kick.

Hope you like it.  Let me know what you think.

Tuesday, January 19, 2016

RYUHIKO INSTALLMENTS 1-9

Ryuhiko is the story of a Japanese-American with a PhD in geophysics who works for US Geological Survey and finds that he has a most incredible history - a history which would pit him against an unbelievable villain intent upon the destruction of life on earth.


Since it has been such a long time since I posted an installment of Ryuhiko I thought I'd better post links to the previous installments for those who had been following to review and those who are just joining us to catch up.  Enjoy.





Installment 1.  http://oldconservationist.blogspot.com/2015/01/ryuhiko.html

Installment 2.  http://oldconservationist.blogspot.com/2015/01/ryuhiko-02.html

Installment 3.  http://oldconservationist.blogspot.com/2015/01/ryuhiko-03.html

Installment 4.  http://oldconservationist.blogspot.com/2015/01/ryuhiko-04.html

Installment 5.  http://oldconservationist.blogspot.com/2015/01/ryuhiko-05.html

Installment 6.  http://oldconservationist.blogspot.com/2015/02/ryuhiko-06.html

Installment 7.  http://oldconservationist.blogspot.com/2015/02/ryuhiko-07.html

Installment 8. http://oldconservationist.blogspot.com/2015/02/ryuhiko-08.html

Installment 9.  http://oldconservationist.blogspot.com/2015/02/ryuhiko-09.html

Ryuhiko - 10

Shinmasa had figured out Lefu Sefefo's plan and the discovery made Shinmasa work all the harder to learn and prepare. By day he practiced his dragon skills and talked to Moru about dragons and life. Night after night he would return to the emptiness that is not empty hoping to meet his father. He grew stronger day by day, but more importantly he grew wiser.

He and Moru spent hours discussing nature and what was at stake in their battle with Lefu Sefefo. The reality of Lefu's use of negative human emotions naturally and quickly led to quantum physics and how that relates to the conservation of energy. In quantum physics we learn that everything in the universe is interconnected or, perhaps better expressed, one. The individual person or item being distinguished as individual is only seen as an item or individual by an observer through the illusion of macro-physics. If this is true then we must accept that what happens to one part of the universe will necessarily effect all other parts of the universe.

The famous psychologist, Carl Jung, believed in interconnectedness and studied quantum physics and eastern mysticism along with his psychological research to confirm his concept of synchronicity in which the belief in ultimate oneness of the universe is not only implicit but fundamental. The reason that the western mind has so much trouble with this concept is, according to Jung, the westerner carefully sifts, weighs, selects, classifies and isolates while the Asian “picture of the moment encompasses everything down to the minutest nonsensical detail, because all of the ingredients make up the observed moment.” What troubled Shimasa was how one could reconcile the oneness of two such extreme opposites. How could he, or anyone, accept that he was one with this spirit who is full of such hatred and animosity that he is not only willing but desirous to destroy all life on planet earth. The only possible explanation came in the form of yin and yang. Yin and yang would explain the polar opposites of Lefu and Ryuhiko, but there was something missing. It just didn't fit. Yin and yang do adequately, if not superbly, explain a perceived balance in the universe, but Shinmasa could not accept that yin and yang were absolutes; that is, that there was no other option or reality.

Shinmasa thought back to his college days when he took a philosophy course. The professor promised an 'A' to any student who could show an opposite to love. In the end result, when the smoke had cleared, none of the students could show an opposite to love. It sounds ridiculous but true. English has one word 'love' which it uses to label all forms of love. To 'love' a mate is, in fact, very different than, say, to 'love' ice cream. To the latter one can define an opposite which, in English, would be 'hate'. But there is no opposite to 'love' between two people. Long story short, it doesn't exist. The Greeks have four words for love – Eros (ἔρως) - love, mostly of the sexual passion; Philia (φιλία) - affectionate regard, friendship, love for family member; Storge (στοργή) - love, affection as with a parent for a child (rare in ancient Greek); and Agape (ἀγάπη) - love, especially brotherly love, charity. One can not identify hate as the opposite for any of these.

While Ryuhiko may be the yang to Lefu's yin, it does not define a relationship that must be. To be a day, must there always be a night? Does not the world's moon always have the same face to the sun. Yes, but that means that the dark side is the yin to the bright side's yang. The mental argument went on and on and on. The only hope was that there is no real and true opposite to love. That alone is the foundation on which one can say yin and yang are not absolute.


Lefu Sefefo knew that Shinmasa would eventually figure out his plan. Actually Lefu wanted him to figure it out and be there to see the beginning of the end of North America but he didn't want him to figure it out in time to do anything to foil his plan. To keep him busy Lefu decided that he needed to create some chaos to attract Ryuhiko's attention and keep him occupied.

Unfortunately the basic personality of the homo sapiens gave Lefu Sefefo plenty of opportunity to cause trouble. The small island of Pulau Sulu was just what Lefu needed. It was actually a part of the Phillipines but it was only 53 miles from Malaysia while it was 135 miles from the nearest other island in the Phillipines. With the average elevation being like that of so many of these small islands, only about three meters, the people were understandably worried when the sea started to rise. Malaysia and Phillipines have a cordial relationship but there's no love lost between them. Politically they are fighting over several islands and Malaysia is a Moslem nations while the Phillipines is predominantly Roman Catholic. It didn't take much for Lefu to do his dirty work.

He sent a rather skilled trouble-maker by the name of Mmolai Botle. The plan was to keep hitting Pulau Sulu with unusual and severe storms. This would not only do serious damage but cause the surrounding seas to rise which would daily increase the risk of the island finding itself under water. The people would begin to flee and they would naturally flee to the closest place; viz. Malaysia. It was then Mmolai's job to get the people in Malaysia angry at the refugees to the point that they turn violent.

Shinmasa first became aware of the situation from watching the news on his laptop. Lefu was right. It did attract Ryuhiko's attention.

You know that's Lefu's handiwork,” warned Moru. “He's baiting you. He wants to get you out before you're ready.”

Oh, I have no doubt that it's Lefu,” agreed Shinmasa, “but I'm not so sure he's looking for a fight.”

And why would you say that?”

Because when he confronted us in the storm he told me that he wasn't going to kill me because he wants me to see North America die,” said Shinmasa while studying maps of Pulau Sulu. Moru could tell that he wasn't paying a bit of attention to her warning. “How long do you think it would take me to fly there?”

A very long time,” Moru snapped. She was a tad annoyed about being ignored. She'd known Lefu her entire life. But there was no argument and Moru very quickly concluded that, if she wasn't going to stop Shinmasa, she'd better do her best to protect him.


Ryuhiko planned his flight so that he would arrive in Pulau Sulu after dark. Even in the darkness he could see that all of the stilt houses along the coast were under water and what passed for the high spot of the island was just barely above sea. Most of the huts that were not under water were on their sides, broken and crumpled. They looked like grotesque silhouettes in the dark with light from the fires adding to the unnatural appearance. He could make out groups of people lying on the ground near small fires huddled together against the evening chill that was present even in the tropics. Most of the people had no clothes. Naked children lay snuggled as close as they could get to an adult while many adults were using themselves as human shelter for others. Trash and debris was scatter all around.

As Ryuhiko looked down on the devastation and human suffering he filled with emotion. He couldn't tell which was stronger, the urge to cry or scream out in rage. He struggled with the drive to do something to help. The frustration was almost more than he could bear. There was no reason to even stop here. He could do nothing about this misery. The only way he could help these people was by stopping Lefu Sefefo. Sadly he lifted high into the air and headed south toward Malaysia.

He barely made it to landfall before light. He found that the Pulau Suluians had first fled to a small fishing village on the north end of Jambongan Island. At first they had been welcomed by the local fishermen until a stranger named Kebenaran Khas, claiming to be a government official, showed up and started telling them that these immigrants were going to take their jobs, destroy the fishing and violate their religion. With sentiment turning against them the immigrants who were already on the island fled southeast along the coast to a heavy jungle area where they could hide, and new refugees soon learned where to go.

By the time that Ryuhiko arrived Kebenaran Khas had so enraged the local residents that they were hunting and killing the refugees from Pulai Sulu. It didn't take Shinmasa long to find Kebenaran, and it didn't take any time listening to the man rant and rave about the evil Pulai Suluians and how they must be destroyed to recognize this provocateur as a human manifestation of Mmolai Botle.

These aliens will take our jobs and destroy our fishing. Their island isn't sinking. They are just saying that so they can take what is yours. Are you going to tolerate that?” The crowd yelled “No! No!”

These aliens,” he continued, “will be around your children. They are infidels. Who knows what blasphemy they might teach your children. Do you want them talking to your children?”

No! No!” the audience again yelled.

Are you going to tolerate them around your women and children?” The crowd responded as expected and Kebenaran smiled an evil smile.

They take your jobs, destroy your fishing, and violate the one true religion. What does the Prophet say of such infidels?”

Kill the infidels!” the crowd began to chant. Kebenaran raised his arms in encouragement and the crowd chanted louder.

Shinmasa worked to get close to the hate preacher. After one of Kebenaran's rallies he was working the crowd. Shinmasa made his way up to the front and feigned being pushed into the politician as he drew near. Shinmasa caught a slight whiff of putrescine. A shiver of disgust passed through him.

As Shinmasa regained his balance he stood up face to face with Kebenaran. He looked into the imposter's eyes. There was nothing. At least there was nothing until their hands touched. When Kebenaran's hand touched Shinmasa's Kebenaran received a shock. The look of recognition, the hatred and pure evil, filled his eyes. Shinmasa wondered whether or not those around them could see his eyes. Kebenaran pulled his hand away quickly.

The Master was right,” said Mmolai softly. “All I had to do was waste a few useless natives and you'd come running.” He paused to smile and shake the hand of a supporter then turned back to Shinmasa with a smirk, “Or did you fly, Ryuhiko?”

It's over,” Shinmasa said. “I'm going to stop you.”

Hush young dragon,” Mmolai said while still smiling, waving and shaking hands with well-wishers, “all I have to do is identify you as 'one of them' and you will die right now.”

If you didn't have some reason to keep me here or let me live, you'd have already sicked them on me.”

Shinmasa turned and walked away. He didn't really know how he was going to stop Mmolai. His manifestation as Kebenaran had popular support and would keep it as long as he could maintain their hatred and anger. Shinmasa could try to expose his lies but no one was willing to doubt him. He was playing the religion card.

That's the interesting thing about religion, thought Shinmasa. A truly evil person can easily use religion because people are afraid to doubt, question or contradict what they are saying. Many religious documents from the Abrahemic religions end with statements threatening hell and damnation if the person reading the document doubts it. Shinmasa thought about a friend of his who was a Christian seminary professor with a PhD in both Old and New Testament. One day a Christian door-knocker stopped at the professor's home. When the professor opened the door they started their speel. Without telling them that he was a seminary professor he started replying to their memorized statements and proof texting with his own “biblical quotes”. The only difference was that the professor was making them up. The evangelizer could do nothing but agree with the professor because he was afraid to doubt, question or contradict. If it would turn out that, in this case, the professor was correct, it would be evident that they didn't really know all about their religion or they might go to hell.

In Ulster, commonly known as Northern Ireland, a man named Ian Pasley wanted to incite the public against those who wanted Ulster to be a part of the Republic of Ireland. The Republican Irish in Ulster were almost all Roman Catholic. Pasley knew that he couldn't keep people excited or angry over politics, but with religion he could kindle such hatred that people would kill for him. He founded his own “Protestant” church, proclaimed himself ordained and started preaching hatred against those horrible Roman Catholics. Since most Roman Catholics were Republican Irish he had accomplished his political goal with the use of religion.

Such a common ploy, and now Mmolai Botle, Lefu's evil servant, was using that ploy in the most classic manner. In any case, playing the religion card always works. How was Shinmasa to get around it?

Shinmasa spent the night with the Pulai Sulu refugees. As Shinmasa he had gathered a great deal of food and other supplies and taken them to an isolate clearing near the village. Once it was safe Shinmasa transformed to Ryuhiko and carried the load to a small clearing deep in the jungle about a mile and a half south of the village near where the refugees were hiding.

Ryuhiko made no attempt to hide himself. The refugees saw him land and were hiding in the nearby jungle watching him. He turned toward them.

My name is Ryuhiko,” he called to them. “I will not harm you. In fact, I have brought you food and supplies.”

Why should we trust you?” one of the refugees finally dared to reply.

I have seen your plight and come to help,” said Ryuhiko. “You know the stories of the protector dragons.”

They were just that,” said the refugee. “Stories that our parents and grandparents told us.”

Perhaps now that you've seen me you might think they were not just made up for children.” Ryuhiko transformed back to Shinmasa. “Besides this food is real and good and you have no one else you can trust.”

A man came out of the jungle and walked toward Shinmasa. He was tall and slender with dark skin and wearing a pair of torn up shorts that were little more than a loin cloth. Shinmasa could hear others calling warnings to him as he approached Shinmasa.

Are you the leader?” asked Shinmasa.

No,” said the man looking over his shoulder, “just the only one crazy enough to walk up to a man who was just a dragon.”

Shinmasa smiled. “I'm glad you took the risk. You can show the others that I'm really a friend and want to help.”

Why?”

Why what?”

Why would you want to help us? Everyone else here wants to kill us.”

Because I know the one who started all this and I'm going to stop him.” The man was now close and Shinmasa smiled and held out his hand. “Wouldn't you like to be able to go home?”

Can you stop our island from sinking?” asked the man who now held Shinmasa's outstretched hand.

Kebenaran is right about one thing. Your island isn't sinking. The sea is rising. If I can stop the one who is causing this then hopefully the sea will stop rising and you can go home.”

That would be wonderful. What can I do to help?”

Tell the others that I am a friend. Have them carry the food and supplies back to your camp and offer me a place to sleep tonight.”

Done!” The man turned and called to the others who were now near enough to the edge of the jungle that Shinmasa could see them. With obvious hesitation the others came toward the two men and the pile of food and supplies. You could almost see the sight of the desperately needed food overcome their fear of the dragon turn man. Each in turn bowed, thanked Shinmasa, took a load of food and headed back into the jungle.

One man stopped after picking up a large bundle. “My parents told us stories about akai ryu,” he said, “but I always thought they were just stories. Thank you!” With that he followed the others into the jungle.

Their camp was not far from the clearing. Group of huts and lean-tos gathered around fires. Children played in the jungle while women were tending the fires, making basket and other necessities. They jumped up excitedly when they saw the men returning with food.

The refugees had a thanksgiving feast that evening. Each of them had come to Shinmasa and expressed their personal appreciation. After the meal the people told Shinmasa about their experiences. They recounted how their homes had been flooded, how the people of Jambongan Island had attacked them and they had fled to this place. They also shared stores of those who had not made it. There was the boat load of people who had been chased down by Jambongan fishermen in boats. The Jamboganians had sunk the Pulau Suluian boat and left the people in the water to drown. A young pregnant woman was stoned to death when she entered the village without her head covered, and a man was beheaded for talking to a Jambonganian child. They couldn't understand what was different. The Pulau Suluians had frequently visited and often traded with the villages on Jambongan. Why were they now filled with hatred? Shinmasa told them about Kebenaran Khas and tried to explain how he was using their religion to create hatred but did not try to explain who Kebenaran really was.

The next day there was another horrendous storm followed shortly by more refugees. Shinmasa spent hours sitting on the beach trying to think of how he was going to stop Kebenaran.

One of the refugees asked him why he didn't just turn into a dragon a scare the Jambonganians. Shinmasa explained how Kebenaran would just call him a devil and turn it into more evidence of how evil the Pulau Suluians really were. But that gave him an idea.

The following morning Shinmasa said good-bye to the refugees, transformed into Ryuhiko and headed toward the village.

He landed outside the house where Kebenaran was staying and called to him.

Mmolai Botle, come out.” People gathered around as Ryuhiko waited. A couple of brave men tried to shot Ryuhiko with a bow and arrow and an old shotgun. Ryuhiko just gave them an angry look and told them to quit. “Mmolai Botle, come out. Are you afraid of me?”

That is the home of Kebenaran Khas,” one old man shouted.

Kebenaran Khas is an imposter,” Ryuhiko told the growing crowd. “His real name is Mmolai Botle and he is a deamon who has been using you to kill innocent people.”

The crowd muttered disapprovingly.

Finally Mmolai appeared. He appeared calm and filled with self-confidence, but Ryuhiko could see into the deamon's eyes. They were filled with anger, hatred and agitation.

I've been telling these good people all about you, Mmolai Botle,” Ryuhiko stirred the anger and moved closer to the evil spirit. “They don't believe me, but you'll tell them the truth won't you?”

My good friends, here you see the true nature of the Pulau Suluians,” Mmolai became quite theatrical. “Take a good look and know why you must be strong against them.”

Oh, come on, Mmolai,” Ryuhiko continued to taunt him, “tell them who you really are. Show them the real you.”

Ryuhiko was getting quite close to Mmolai and he could see the concern on Mmolai's face. Mmolai didn't dare let the people see him as Mmolai Botle, the evil spirit servant of the spirit of death. Ryuhiko started physically pushing Mmolai. Each time he touched the evil spirit sparks flew. The pain was showing on Mmolai's face and the anger growing in his eyes.

How's it going to serve your master to let me destroy you right in front of these humans?” Ryuhiko started to heckle the evil spirit. “No, you're not staying in the form of Kebenaran because you don't want them to see the real you. You're afraid. You're terrified of my power.” Ryuhiko kept physically pushing Mmolai. “You know that I can easily destroy you and you're scared. You're staying in the form of Kebenaran because you're hoping that I won't destroy you in human form.” Ryuhiko started pushing harder and the harder he pushed the greater the sparks. The people in the crowd started yelling at Ryuhiko, praying for their god to stop him, and throwing things at him. “Well if you think I'm not going to destroy you because you look like a human, you're wrong . . . . dead wrong!”

Ryuhiko put on a great act of pulling back his claw and reaching for Kebenaran. Before Ryuhiko could bring the powerful claw down on the human there was a cloud of smoke around Kebenaran followed by the stench of putrescine. Then before them stood the evil spirit Mmolai Botle in all his grotesque evilness. The crowd backed away even farther. Some women fainted and people began to vomit at the stench.

Behold your pious leader,” Ryuhiko proclaimed in a loud voice. “See the one who has been telling you to kill innocent people.” Mmolai began to swing violently at Ryuhiko who easily ducked the attack. “Is this the faithful follower of your prophet or servant of your god?” By this time Mmolai was in such a rage that he was swinging wildly. “He tricked you into doing his foul deeds for him. In the name of this evil one you slaughtered innocent people.”

Mmolai Botle lunged at Ryuhiko. Ryuhiko struck with all the force he could muster. There was an enormous flash of brilliant light immediately followed by a violent explosion. Mmolai screamed in pain. His grotesque form launched upward by the power of their encounter. Hanging above Ryuhiko and the crowd of people he screamed at Ryuhiko, “You may have won this one, but you haven't seen the last of Mmolai Botle.”

The people stood starring. They were trying to comprehend what they had just witnessed. Ryuhiko could hear them talking among themselves.

He tricked you,” Ryuhiko said to the people. “He made you do his bidding by making you think he was a faithful servant of Allah when his real master is the evil spirit of death. He got you to kill innocent people who wanted only a safe place to wait out the storms so they could go home.”

The Jambonganians just stood and watched as Ryuhiko rose above the crowd and flew off. He stopped by the refugee camp to tell them about his encounter with Mmolai and suggest that they might be able to return home soon.

Ryuhiko returned to his mountain lair. A few weeks later the people of Pulau Sulu returned to their island followed a short while later by people from Jambongan offering to help them rebuild their homes.

As Ryuhiko flew home he was totally unaware of the dark figure that followed at a distance. 

Thursday, January 7, 2016

Why do we do it?

 What drives a normally rational, reasonably intelligent human being to live in a 16 foot camper trailer and work for free in the middle of the largest wilderness reserve in North America – some 3,000 square miles?  Glacier National Park alone is almost 1,600 square miles.  It's isn't an easy thing to explain.
In our case, we have a 16 foot vintage trailer that we've restored. we call it 'Willy'. Every May we pack Willy, load all of our 'toys' – two kayaks, two bicycles, two sets of scuba diving gear, and trekking gear – in and on our 2013 Ram 1500 4x4, gather the dogs and make our annual trek to Glacier National Park where we volunteer as campground hosts and back-country trail patrol. We live in Willy about 11 miles into the park. We do have electricity and water but there is no telephone, no internet, and no television. The joke here is that Glacier has two seasons – July and winter. Normally in May and June we never see daytime temperatures above 70 and night-time lows are in the high 30s or low 40s. By the time the lows are up to 45 we're sleeping with the windows open. Generally June is a very wet month. If it isn't raining it is snowing. Our day starts at 7am and ends at 9pm. While we do often get the chance for some time to ourselves we spend an average of 11 hours a day in the National Park Service volunteer khaki and brown uniform. When we do take time off we tend to elect to spend it doing other types of volunteer work – back-country trail patrol and working in the nursery that grows indigenous plants for restoration.
Our home  -  "Willy"
I can't write this and not think of a line in the movie “Beverly Hillbillies”. Jed Clampet has just discovered oil on his rural Arkansas land. His sister is telling him all the things she sees as wrong with the way he lives – no electricity, animals, in the middle of no-place – to which he replies, “Yes, we is'a livin' in paradise.” But that doesn't really explain why we do it, does it?
Granted, to our minds we are living in paradise. Glacier has clean air, the cleanest water in North America, magnificent mountains, and lots of bears, mountain goats, big horn sheep, moose, and many other animals. The only down side to the abundance of animals is that, for three months of the year, it also has an abundance of the most erratic, unpredictable and deadly animal on earth . . . homo sapiens. It takes our constant diligence and efforts to keep this invasive species from polluting the water, destroying the forest and driving the other animals into extinction. But I digress.
Jeff and Carolyn were fellow campground hosts in 2014. Like us they liked to find other ways they could help Glacier and the National Park Service. When he was able to get away, Jeff would work in the carpentry shop. He also helped install a new water tank high on a mountain side. Carolyn applied her teaching skills to provide educational programs. They are a great couple. But I must admit that we were most proud of them when we learned that they were going to count loons.
Counting loons might not sound like much until you understand that they would be taken by boat to a place so remote that there aren't even trails. There definitely wasn't any way of communicating with the outside world. They were 100% on their own to hike for three days counting loons in back-country lakes. I well remember us listening to the park radio when they called Dispatch to say that they were “commencing our back-country itinerary.” That's radio jargon for “we're going out into the wild unknown. If we don't get back when we say we will, would someone please come looking for us.”
Mt Edward stands above our home
at Sprague Creek
But I guess this is just another example. It doesn't tell why we do it.
Most of our campers are tent-campers. Willy is the only trailer allowed at Sprague Creek and “RV” on the registration tag usually means sleeping in a van or the occasional truck-camper. They tend to be at Glacier to hike, bike, kayak, or fish. They get up early and go to bed early. I really enjoy helping them plan hikes and other adventures then hearing them tell all about it at the end of the day.
When we have children they like to come to our campsite because Pamela will help them earn their Junior Ranger badge, send them out looking for flowers (no picking!) or take them on nature walks. One morning in 2015 I had just finished morning rounds at 7am and was enjoying my coffee when I saw four little blonde-headed girls heading toward our site. Pamela stuck her head out to say “hi” when, in unison, the girls asked “can you come out to play?” Pamela has a collection of pictures children have drawn and notes they have sent her.
I guess that's closer to answering why we do it, but it isn't the whole story. The opportunity to help people and their children enjoy and appreciate the wilderness is a strong motivator, but it isn't quite everything.
View from a mountain we patrol 
The back-country trail patrol that we do is called 'wildlife management' and falls under the auspices of Law Enforcement (park police). Even in our training it is admitted that what we do is really 'human management'. We hike trails that are very heavily traveled and have a lot of human-wildlife encounters. Our job is to help people understand how to behave in such areas and with the animals and plant life they encounter. We try not to be junior cops.
It is so rewarding to have a group gather around and ask questions. They want to know. We love telling the story of the great thrust that created the mountains that were then shaped by glaciers; about rocks that are two billion years old and Stramatolites that are billions of years old and are evidence that we were once connected to Australia; about the fragile alpine ecosystem; about why the animals do what they do. And it is so rewarding to stand with a person – child or adult – when they stand 25 yards from a wild animal without a barrier between them and see the looks on their faces. They are experiencing life as they've never known it.
A Mountain Goat is easily capable of killing a human. 
Once, when I was patrolling the Hidden Lake Trail, I was sitting at the Hidden Lake Overlook. There were lots of visitors and they were all asking questions about the Mountain Goats around us. I had a sandwich in my hand. Suddenly a large nanny (female) Mountain Goat was standing not 10 yards from us. She had undoubtedly been attracted by my food, so I put my sandwich back in my backpack and hoisted it onto my shoulders. She didn't move. The visitors stood mesmerized. Once realizing how big the animals was and how big her horns were, they asked if Mountain Goats are aggressive. I told them that she was smart enough to realize that she was outnumbered and she was trying to decide whether it was worth the risk to try to get to my food. As you might expect, she may not have been able to count, but she knew that I wasn't the only human there, so she finally ambled away. The visitors thought that was the most exciting adventure of their lives and they wanted to know more about this magnificent animal. It made me almost giddy to have people really want to hear about how we are tracking Mountain Goats so we can better understand them and co-exist with them, how they raise their young and why they risk coming so close to humans.
Yes, the opportunity to educate people about the nature of which they are a part must be a part of why we volunteer.
Wonderful animals that I love dearly,
but they're not 'Teddy Bears'. 
Have you ever stood a few feet from a Black bear, encountered a Grizzly on a trail, had five Big Horn sheep run around you to get to the mountain, had a mountain goat walk over your feet on a narrow mountain ledge, watch a coyote hunting, encountered a badger, watched elk in the evening twilight or looked into the dark eyes of a mule deer? If you haven't, you've got to try it!
To say that we love the animals might be one of the biggest understatements of this blog. There is nothing greater than living in harmony with nature. Man is a very special animal with our cognitive skills and abilities to dream and work toward dreams. Sadly, man is also one of the poorest animals on earth having denied his animalness and given up so many animal skills thereby isolating himself from his true nature and the unity of nature around him.
A shy Mule Deer doe
When we volunteer at a place like Glacier National Park and participate in programs like the back-country trail patrol and teach our campers and their children respect for the animals in whose home they are visiting, we are fighting a life and death battle for humanity. We are working and fighting for the restoration of the natural place of the homo sapiens so that it might live in true peace with itself, its environment and other animals.
Perhaps Pamela Smith; my colleague, companion, fellow adventure-seeker, best friend and mate; summed it up in two sentences after she listened to me read a draft of this blog.  "For me the entire experience completes the essence of who I am. It fills a void in my soul that I never even knew was there."  Well said, Pamela.  Well said. 

Pamela approaching the summit of Mt Oberlin
Determined to climb the mountain even with bone-on-bone knees
she climbed Mt Oberlin four months before bilateral
total knee replacement.  Touch, determined lady!

Post Script:  In not quite four months (May 1, 2016) we will officially be full-timers. We have already made application to work as volunteers at another National Park and are considering a third.  




Tips for Back-country Adventure

Hidden Lake, Glacier National Park 
I had promised a Facebook friend some tips about back-country hiking in Glacier and thought that such tips might be helpful to others as well.  I need to make a couple of notes before I get started. Firstly, I have a lot of experience in the back-country.  Beginning in my early teens I started running with a group whose idea of a great weekend was to see how far or how long we could go taking as little as possible. This is the group of which I spoke in my Nov 2015 blog entitled Looking Out the Window (1) where we went canoeing down French Creek, through the Allegheny Mountains on a snowy November day.  A lot of people call such skills "survival skills" but most of these skills are really just skills you need to have a really great and fun time in the wilderness. So let's call them 'back-country skills'.  In any case, I have a lot of experience and fairly good skills but I still do not consider myself an expert.  If you go looking for a book about back-country skills, of which I'm sure there are many, be sure the author has more credentials than me. Back-country rangers, wilderness guides and such persons are your best bet.  I'm just going to get you started.  There are also organization and companies that teach you these skills while you have a great adventure under their supervision.

 My good Silva Ranger 
A good sighting compass
I. The first thing that I always do when I'm considering running or hiking a new trail in the wilderness, is research.  Accompanying this is one of the primary skills I believe is important - the use of map and compass. This is the first step of research.  You are safest when you have good maps of the area you're going to be traveling and know how to use the maps and compass. My preference is the topographic map and a good map/sighting compass like my Silva Ranger.  Pamela teases me because I never have less than two compasses with me at any time. As I sit here writing I have two compasses.  When I'm on the trail I have the compass on my Casio Pathfinder, my good Silva, along with what I call a 'sighting compass' in my backpack.  A sighting compass is a must!  A good compass like the Silva Ranger will cost you from $60-100, but, if you spend any time in the wilderness, it will be worth it.

Get good maps. I not only buy good National Geological Survey topographic maps but I subscribe to an on-line map service called Trimble Outdoors (2)  Pamela will tell you that I spend hours studying the maps of the area we will be in. Granted I love just studying maps.  This is the second step of research - study your maps.  After many years of using topographic maps I can now visualize what we will encounter.  But even if you can't identify a mountain from what you've seen on a topo map you will be prepared for difficult climbs and other features. You really don't want surprises.

The third step of research is to talk to a ranger or other back-country person about the trail you are planning to hike.  One of the most common things I encounter when we are working at Sprague Creek is to be asked about trails. My information comes from three sources: (1) I've hiked the trail before and can tell you about it; (2) I've hiked the trail recently and I can not only tell you about it but I can tell you the condition, areas to watch, etc.; and (3) I can share trail information I've obtained from another hiker.  When someone asks about a trail for which I can not provide good, recent information, I send them to a back-country ranger. Knowing the conditions of the trails is their job and they are very good at it. When I was out running trails around the country I would always check in with a ranger to learn about condition, wildlife, and any special situations or equipment needs. When this is a part of your research your contacts can also tell you whether or not the trail you have selected is beyond your skill level. Personally I am very up-front with people about trails that I believe are beyond their skill.  They usually appreciate it.

My pack is always in the truck
and ready to go.
 
II. Now that you've done your research you need to prepare. What are you going to need?  This will vary on how long you plan to be gone, etc., but I'm going to address the basic - what I take no matter how short the hike/run might be.

The first essential is my backpack.  You don't have to be 50 miles out in the wilderness to need survival basics. You can be a mile or two from the trailhead and be faced with an emergency that can be handled with the contents of a well stocked backpack.

Let's take a quick look at my pack. It is a medium price Camelbak, in the $100 range. It fits well and I've worn it almost constantly for as much as 14 hours when I ran the 50k Eagle Rock Loop. Fit and comfort are seriously important. Spend the money and get something good. You can see the blue hydration tube in the picture. I have 4L of water in the bladder and will stuff bottles of water in any spare corner.  The top zipper is a small pocket where I carry a compass, pencil and paper, and other small items. The next zipper goes into the largest compartment. In here there is a complete survival kit.  Lists for what to have in your survival kit are easy to obtain so I won't take the time here. Just know you need one. This compartment also holds rain gear, dry socks and any other clothing I might need, tarps, a saw, rope and other items for survival.  In the front zipper there is a large storage area and some mesh pockets. The pockets contain my ResQLink, SteriPen, and other similar items that I want to be able to find very quickly and easily.  The larger area contains a good sized first-aide kit, food and snacks.  You see that I have a back-country tool for cutting fair size branches. (Yes it is a knife. Yes it is legal. But it's like a scuba diver's knife, it is first and foremost a tool.)  You will also notice spring type cleats. I carry them all the time at Glacier. We had 30 inches of snow at elevations above 6,000 ft on June 23rd 2014 and we had enough snow down at 3-4,000 feet to make trails treacherous. My fully loaded pack weighs about 25 pounds.

The second essential is the ResQLink and SteriPen.  Of course, remember, these essentials are not in order of importance. Just ease of presentation.  My ResQLink has both the traditional beacon as well as the ability to send a signal to satellites that are monitored by 200 countries around the world.  With the satellite signal you're not waiting for someone to notice you're late and then start looking for a beacon, but a beacon is better than nothing.  We had a situation last summer at Glacier where two young men decided to climb a mountain well into the wilderness just south of the Canadian border. They did not have either a beacon or a device like a ResQLink.  One of them fell and was seriously injured. To make a long story short,  Rangers had to be sent toward the approximated position from three different directions, because we didn't really know where they were. Not only did we tie up tremendous resources but it took much longer. Had they had a ResQLink we would have known almost immediately after the accident and we could have their position within minutes. In that scenario the longest time would have been for the rescue helicopter to fly to the location.  If they had had a beacon we would have lost a lot of time because we would not have known there was an emergency until they were reported late. Nevertheless the beacon would greatly reduce the time to find them and get the rescue helicopter there.  As it was, without either device, we didn't know that the man had fallen until about 2 pm. Since we had to hike in and search for him we were not able to locate and remove him until almost 11pm.  Thankfully it was light until that late during summer days. Put out the money and get yourself either a beacon or a device like a ResQLink. Again, you don't have to be 50 miles into the wilderness for it to save your life.

The third essential is good and proper equipment.  Pamela and I have seen people out on serious trails wearing sandals and flipflops. They think that just because the trail is frequently used and only 2.5 miles long (one way) that they don't need to be prepared. In my blog about running across the Badlands (3) I told about a family that I found a little more than a mile from the trailhead without map or water, wearing tennis shoes and sandals. They were lost. Besides your backpack, never go out on any trail without proper clothing, good boots, bear spray and trail poles.  Dress for the weather and be prepared for a change. Unless you got a 50% discount, if you paid less than $100 for your boots you probably don't have good boots.  I also suggest getting your boots from a reputable outfitter. They should know how to fit them as well as have the best boots in stock. If you are in Bear country, bear spray should be worn either on the hip or on a back-pack strap going over your chest. It should always be quickly and easily accessible. There is a story we tell visitors about the man who put his bear spray in his back pack, put the pack down to step off the trail and pee . . . . well, you can guess what happened. People laugh but it isn't really funny.  Even when I'm in the campground my bear spray hangs from my hip.  You will notice in the picture that I am carrying trail poles and wearing gaiters.
I believe that one should never do trails without poles. If you look at pictures of international ultra trail runners (50-100+ miles) you will notice that they always use  trail poles. Poles provide safety and stability.  The gaiters are optional but I always wear them because they protect my legs from underbrush and keep dirt and debris out of my boots as well as being beneficial if there is snow.

III.  Now that you're properly prepared and outfitted there is one other thing you should know before you hit the trail - wildlife.  Glacier National Park rules say to stay 100 yards away from bears and mountain lions and 25 yards from everything else.  Since the animals don't know the rules, it's up to you to try to keep the rules.  My grandson, Kieran, and I were approached by a Mountain Goat billy on Mt Oberlin. Kieran said, "we're closer than 25 yards."  All I could say was "we do our best."  I've also ended up close enough to a bear to smack it on the rump, but I didn't get that close on purpose. Sometimes it happens.  The big thing to remember is that the closer you are the more you stress the animal. Try to give them plenty of room. You still get a good experience, modern cameras can do marvels, and you and the animal will part friends.  Make plenty of noise as you hike. DO NOT BE QUIET.  The only people to be attacked by a bear while we were at Glacier in 2015 were two Rangers. They were going up the side of a mountain. There was a strong and very cold head wind, so they had their heads down to keep warm and weren't making any noise. No animal ahead of them was going to smell or hear them. They suddenly found themselves between a bear and her cub.  She knocked one of them down and threw the other up against the side of the mountain. She then took her cub and left. One of them got a cut. Point is, all animals will generally keep their distance from humans and they almost always smell and hear us long before we're in sight. The only exception is the Mountain Lion who is always in predator mode. So be sure to make enough noise especially if you are hiking into the wind. If you find the carcass of an animal on which another animal has been feeding, you are wisest to retreat from the areas as quickly as possible without running.  If you come upon fresh bear or mountain lion skat or indicators of the animal being there recently like the ground clawed up where the Grizzly has been digging Glacier Lilies, you want to seriously consider turning back. All National Parks in bear country have materials to learn about how to safely hike in bear country. Glacier hands a flyer out at the gate. Review such materials before you go hiking.  At Glacier, and probably also in other bear country parks, all staff are required to attend "bear school" ever two years. When you spend as much time as we do in the wilds, you're going to encounter most of the animals. Staff are always happy to answer any questions you might have about the educational flyers.

It may seem like a lot of trouble, but you can make the preparation for a hike in the wilderness an enjoyable experience in itself.  It really is harder to explain it than do it, but even if that weren't true it could mean the difference between having a marvelous adventure or a disastrous experience.  If you take the time to do proper preparation right from the start you will find that it takes less time every time you do it. Nevertheless I still carry a checklist. Complacency spells disaster.

I hope that this primer has given you some ideas, maybe raised questions that you need to ask, and encourages you to go into the wilderness prepared. I promise, it will be a lot more fun.

Good hiking. I wish you a most magnificent adventure!!






















(1)  http://oldconservationist.blogspot.com/2015/11/looking-out-window.html
(2)  http://www.trimbleoutdoors.com/
(3) http://oldconservationist.blogspot.com/2015/11/running-badlands.html






Sunday, January 3, 2016

Life in Northwest Montana

Flathead County is the second largest county in the State of Montana. It has a population of 94,924 people living in an area of 5,255 square miles. (That's 18 people per square mile.)   Part of Glacier National Park lies in Flathead County including our home from May to September.

While there are many people we love in the east, and there is lots of beautiful country in the east, Pamela and I must admit that we're happiest when we're at Glacier.  We start to get a bit giddy when we first see the Rocky Mts in the distance.  That's when we start singing John Denver songs about the Rocky Mountains and Montana. By the time we turn north from Missoula we are sitting on the edge of our seats. When we see the sign for West Glacier we know that we're almost home.
The view from our campsite at Sprague Creek
For the first half of the season we live and work at Sprague Creek, about 11 miles into the park. We would love to stay at Sprague Creek for the entire season but the couple who have the other half would like to have our half.  For the first 12 weeks we live along the shore of Lake McDonald and take care of the 25 site campground that is 95% tent camping - no trailers or big RVs allowed. We have no internet, telephone or television. Even the satellite companies can't provide services. Firstly we're so far north that we can't aim a dish at the satellite without hitting a mountain. Secondly, even if we could around the mountains the forest canopy is so dense that nothing penetrates. We love it!

Tourist area of West Glacier
We try to leave the park no more than once or twice a week.  We have a Sunday morning breakfast with fellow hosts at a restaurant in West Glacier.  The most part of West Glacier, population 233, doesn't open until Memorial Day. The old village, originally named Belton, is open year around.  We will do our laundry when we're "in town" for Sunday breakfast. When we go shopping, need a vet or other services, we go to Columbia Falls, population 4,796. It is about 45 miles from us and is the closest of the three "big" towns in the area - Columbia Falls, Whitefish and Kalispell. There is a small community of Hungry Horse (population 826) where there is a grocery store, but it is very limited.

Columbia Falls
Actually Columbia Falls has two nice grocery stores where we can get just about anything we want.  Well, they don't have ocra. The vet who did Teddy's surgery in 2014 was in Columbia Falls and we really liked her. The town has three really good restaurants. One is actually a coffee shop - The Montana Coffee Company - and has one of the best offerings of vegetarian entrees anywhere.

If we need to go to a large store to get tires, Home Depot, pieces for the trailer, a Walgreen pharmacy or camping equipment and supplies we go to Kalispell, the county seat. Kalispell is about 65 miles from us and has a population of 20,972 making it the 7th largest city in Montana. Actually Billings at 104,170 is the largest city in Montana and still only 58% the size of Evansville, IN.  Oh, yes, I have to admit that Kalispell has a Walmart, but we don't hold that against it.
Hungry Horse about 20-25 miles from us.

For things like books, a great bicycle shop and anything touristy the best place is Whitefish, a ski resort town of 6,649 people. It is also the location of our nearest Ram dealer and hospital.  Another tourist town is Big Fork near the north end of Flathead Lake. Flathead Lake is the largest lake in Montana. Big fork is where we go at least once a season to enjoy summer stock theater.

We like almost everyone we meet who lives here year around.  There are a lot of transplants. The population of the entire State of
Main Street, Whitefish, MT   
Montana is less than 1 million people. Few of our friends and colleagues are actually from the area. We do, however, know three Rangers who went to school together in the North Fork - the most remote of this remote area.  Among the rest the joke is -  first day here you see the sights. Second day here you see the realtor.

  When the lights go out at night there is no city's glow in the distance. There's nothing but the Milky Way or perhaps the Northern Lights.  Our nearest neighbors are bears and mule deer. We get along well with our neighbors. Yes, it's true. We live in one of the most remote areas left in the United States. Isn't that marvelous!?

Kalispell, MT. 













Northern lights over Lake McDonald.