Kiááyo
The
storm had stopped. The scene, as I looked at the steep, rocky side
of Mt Stimson, was snow, massive out-cropping of grey rock with an
occasional cluster of lodge pole pines. The valley was buried under a
sea of snow the edge of which was lapping at the entrance to the cave
where I had taken shelter.
It
was a beautiful scene but I wasn't enjoying it. My leg hurt and I had
no idea how I was going to get back down the mountain to the
trail-head, road and help. I checked on my ResQLink. It was still
transmitting. I had put it in a protective bag and left it outside
the cave so that the signal would hopefully be received. I was
almost eight and a half miles from the trail-head, an injured leg and
no idea of whether or not help was coming. Perhaps once the storm
had passed and the skies cleared the ResQLink would be able to make a
satellite connection.
As
I sat contemplating my next move I heard the sound of the helicopter.
It moved slowly up the valley between the two mountains. Spotting
me, the helicopter hovered and the pilot waved. There was no place
for it to land. They had undoubtedly anticipated that. A man on the
passenger side leaned out and dropped a large parcel. It was filled
with supplies and a radio so that I could communicate with the rescue
team as they made their way to my location.
I
waved at the helicopter as it pulled away. Looking across the valley
to the side of Mt Stimson I saw him. We stood and looked at
each other for a long time. “Thank you, brother Kiááyo” (brother bear). I called to him as I waved. With that the great animal turned and
ambled down the valley.
It
had all started as a quick overnight excursion to the Upper Nyach
Campground. I had followed the Pinchot Creek from the highway. I
was at the overlook between Mt. Stimson and Mt Pinchot about nine and
a half miles from the trailhead. It was just after noon. I had
figured that, if I made good time, I would would go to the top of Mt
Pinchot. I had made good time but the weather was threatening. I had
anticipated rain but the temperature was dropping fast.
About
that time I heard a rumble. Before I could decide whether or not it
was thunder I was being pelted by rocks. It was a rock slide.
Instinctively I headed toward cover behind a giant bolder that had
undoubtedly fallen in another slide. Sadly I didn't make it. Ducking
a bolder that was bigger than me I ran right into the path of a
slightly smaller piece of Mt Pinchot. The pain in my left leg was
excruciating. I fought to keep my balance and remain conscious. I
lost both battles ending up in a heap a few yards below the point of
impact.
I
began to regain consciousness about an hour later. My head was cold.
I opened my eyes. The ground was already white and my body was
covered with a thin layer of snow. It wasn't easy to sit up. Next to
me was my trusty Tilly hat – a felt fedora mountain hat with ear flaps tucked up inside. I pulled out the ear flaps and felt the
warmth as my ears were protected from the bite of the wind. I
couldn't help but chuckle to myself thinking about how many time
Indiana Jones' fedora came bouncing back to him.
It
was then that I was reminded why I was lying on the ground covered
with snow. Without thinking I tried to move my legs. My left leg was
going to have nothing to do with it and complained loudly. Well, I
yelled loudly.
My
trousers were ripped open from just above my gaiters to close to my
hip. There was lots of blood but it looked more like an abrasion than
a cut. There were no bones protruding. That was a good sign.
I
pulled myself up into a sitting positing propped up against the giant
bolder to which I had been running for cover and pulled off my
backpack. There were lots of marks, scratches and tears on the pack.
It had taken a lot of the impact for me and might have saved my life.
I opened up the large front compartment. That's where I always keep
the first aid kit. I had been carrying this backpack with all
of the emergency, survival and first aide equipment every time I set
foot on a trail for almost ten years. I had always explained that
you don't have to been 20 miles into the wilderness to need emergency
and survival gear.
After
cleaning up my leg I tried to stand. It didn't work. I found one of
my poles nearby but the other had been mangled. It too had probably
played a part in protecting my leg from more serious damage. The one pole gave
a little bit of support but movement was exceptionally slow, painful and
shaky. It didn't take me long to figure out that I wasn't going to
make the 9 mile walk out. It was snowing even harder. I needed
serious help.
Some
years before my family bought me a ResQLink for Christmas. It was
one of those gifts, like insurance, you hope never to need. The
ResQLink not only had the traditional distress signal but it had a
satellite link that was monitored by 200 countries around the world.
Everything I had read said that if you are injured in the wilderness
of North America they can pinpoint your location in twenty minutes. I
looked up at the snow. I sure wasn't going to find out if that was
right. No hope of a satellite signal in a snow storm. My ResQLink
occupied a mesh pocket in the front zipper compartment so that it
would be easy to access.
I
sat there looking at the small device. When I had registered it with
the government there had been stern instructions that it is only to
be activated in a life-or-death emergency. I looked up into the snow
storm. What little I could see of the mountain in front of me, the
pain in my leg, and the nine miles to the road convinced me that this
was just such an occasion. I pushed the lever which released the
antenna and pushed the button. The ResQLink began to tell the world
that I needed help.
Leaning
back against the bolder I tried to ignore the pain and think about
what I needed to do next. Of course I knew that shelter had to be my
top priority. Looking around I decided that this spot wasn't going to
provide the shelter I would need. If I could work my way back toward
the road, the tree-line was about a mile south. It was still early
afternoon. Despite the darkness created by the storm it was still
daylight and would be for several hours. I felt I had a much better
chance of finding a good place to hold up if I could get to the
tree-line.
It
was extremely slow going. I spent more time dragging myself than
anything even related to walking. As I moved along I scoured the area
for anyplace where I might make a shelter. I was getting cold and
tired.
I
had gone about half way to the tree-line and was trying to get out of
the biting cold wind by sitting under an overhang. By this time I
knew what explorers and survivors meant when they said they 'reached
down inside' for every ounce of strength and courage.
My
mind turned toward an old indigenous people's prayer.
Send
your strength
oh
mighty Kiááyo.
At
my time of need
Teach
me to understand
that
I possess all
the
resources necessary
to
survive.
Guide
me toward strength,
brother
Kiááyo.
I
decided that I had to make my stand right there. Mustering up all
the strength I could find and repeating the prayer, I pulled out a
tarp. I struggled for quite some time to fasten it in such a way
that it would afford me some protection from the driving wind that
now made the snow feel like needles against any exposed skin.
That's
when I saw him. The mighty Kiááyo – a large multicolored
Grizzly bear - walking toward me. I reached to my hip where I always
carried my bear spray. The can had been crushed. Kiááyo kept
coming seeming almost oblivious to the storm that was getting more fierce by the minute. All I could do was sit and watch
him get closer.
The
bear stopped some few yards away. He was close enough that I could
see his eyes. In bear school they teach you not to look them
directly in the eyes because that can be interpreted as threat or
challenge. But I couldn't help it. The giant grizzly, his hair
standing straight out to his side from the force of the wind, stood
looking at me. The face, the eyes, showed compassion.
Humans
like to think we're the only animals who have feelings. I've know
for a very long time that isn't true. I really didn't need the
scientific evidence from such scientists as Dr. Carl Safina but he
did show that we actually inherited our ability to have feelings from
animals who have been on this planet a much longer time.
For
some reason I wasn't terrified. Strictly speaking he would have been
very much in his right to have had me for dinner. It was survival in
the wilderness. But I couldn't take my eyes off his face.
Kiááyo
stood and looked at me for a short while. Then he started around the
overhang under which I was hiding. He started toward the almost
vertical wall of Mt Pinchot. Every once and a while he would stop
and turn to look at me. Then he would turn his head toward the
mountain, back toward me and start moving again. He seemed to want
me to follow, and when I did, he moved quickly up the mountain.
Not
twenty yards from where we had started he stopped at the base of a
sheer wall. He looked at the wall and then at me. He did this
several times. Finally I raised my hand in reply. I don't know why
except I felt that was what I should do. I needed to let him know
that I knew he wanted me to look at that wall. I don't know if it
meant anything but he seemed to drop his head and then moved off
parallel to the wall heading toward the tree-line.
As
I dragged myself toward the mountain face I struggled to see through the blowing snow. But then there it was. At first it was just a dark
spot in the side of the mountain, but as I drew closer I could see.
It was a cave.
It
wasn't the Waldorf. It wasn't even a Motel 6. It was better. It was
shelter which meant survival. It meant that I could go back into the
cave where I was away from the wind and the snow, crack open a couple
of the chemical heat packets in my survival kit, crawl into my -20
degree sleeping bag and get some rest.
Yes,
I thought about this being the bear's den, but there was no sign of
den material – grasses, branches, etc., to make a place to
hibernate. Besides this was a lot larger than any bear den I had know
about. I think maybe it was too big for conservation of energy. In
any case, my options were to risk this place of refuge and take my
chances that I'd end up dinner, or try to survive outside with very
poor odds. Before I burrowed back further into the cave I put my
ResQLink in a weather-proof case and set it outside in a somewhat
protected spot so that it could continue to transmit my distress
signal.
I
rolled out my sleeping bag, took a couple more pain killers from my
first aide kit, cracked a chemical heat pack, and lay down to rest.
That was the first time I really felt that I was going to survive.
“Thank you, brother Kiááyo,” I said as I closed my eyes.
I
pushed the mike button on the old radio they had dropped with the
supplies.
“Dispatch,
this is the hiker is distress.”
“Hiker,
Dispatch” came the reply, “what is your status?”
“I
was injured in a rock slide,” I replied. “I'm stable but I can't
walk. Afraid I'm going to have to wait for help.”
“A
rescue team is on the way. It should only be a few hours.”
“That's
wonderful” I said.
I
sat looking out over the valley between Mt Stimson and Mt Pinchot.
It was a postcard wonderland. Despite the throbbing in my leg I could
appreciate the majesty of the mountain before me and the beauty of
the new fallen snow. But most of all I wanted to see Kiááyo again. I wanted to thank him for saving my life. I searched the side of the mountain with my binoculars but he was not to be seen.
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